JackS

Years ago I bought a used Celica GT with about 50k on the OD. I was a little selective with my oil during my first 30k or so then began using just about anything that was offered at the local Super Lube or Big Ten.
The car is now close to 150k and has never used a drop of oil.
I could reasonably treat ny new S to the same regimine and have the same expectations but with this car I want to spoil it a little and spoil myself at the same time. Hence, the Mobil-1.
I bought a new Corvette in 1981 and drove it until 1998. Using only scheduled changes, I never had engine problems with this car either and it never did see a drop of synthetic.
Amsoil I'm sure is wonderful oil, the problem I have with it is its availability. I will not be ordering my oil over the telephone or the net. I want to be able to shop Pep Boys or even Wal-Mart for this item.
We all have to decide on a product that we will use and I'm confident with this choice.
As for confidence in any product it is earned which may come from something we've read but still has to be used to be proven.
I would not push any product on anyone (regular or synthetic).
Use what you like and use it on schedule and you'll have no problems.

Triple-H

40,000 miles and lots of track use.

I use a couple quarts of 5W30 and then fill it up with 10W30, all regular oil. Honda engines have no problems with thinner, they do have problems with thicker. I have run Pennzoil and Valvoline for as long as I have had the car, and I do a fresh oil change before each driving school, so sometimes I'm only getting a couple thousand miles on a change, thus I see no need to buy ultra costly oil.

slipstream444

[QUOTE]Really?
How about oxidation?
How about the acidic blow-by products present in every engine?
How about fuel dilution?
How about the Viscosity Index Improvers?

IOW, the additives that fight oxidation, the additives that fight the blow-by acidics that make it past the piston rings (that

SpitfireS

slipstream444 Posted on Apr 26 2007, 06:03 PM
I partly agree.
Filtering out acidic chemicals (fuel maybe too, fuel is thinner then oil ) is almost impossible, thats filtering at molecular level.
Even Amsoil's bypass filters don't go any smaller then 1 micron.
A micron is pretty smal, but molecules are smaller, something in the range of a thousand times smaller.

Amsoil is IMO saying out loud (long drain interval) what other oil companys wil not say (but IMO surely know) because they want you to but oil - from them.
to Amsoil.
The Mobil1 or any other brand that gets drained after only 3000 miles is probably used up to 1/3 of its life too.
But if you drive only 3000 miles a year.. a yearly oil change may not be so bad.
Whatever oil you use.

iDomN8U

Are we talking about Synthetic oils?

From the readings on this forum I went out and picked up $200 in Mobil 1 10w30 Synthetic oil and change it out every 5000 miles since the census was that it's a excellent lubricant.

I wish there was conclusion based on general conditions on what oil to use and a general change out period based on general driving behavior.

In other words, break it down in laymen terms:

ie:

Multiple climate (Upper States/Canada):
5w30 during 20C and below
best protection:
Amsoil (ALS) 5w30 - UOA change out suggest 8000 miles (based on avg driving behavior)
good protection:
Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic - UOA (7000 miles, ideal driving)
economy:
Pennzoil Platium 5w30 dino - UOA (5000 miles, ideal)
20 C + 10w30 etc

If that could be laid out in 1 thread and stickied then I think it would reduce alot of these type of questions.

INDYMAC

All of my guesses are opinions. I am by no means an expert in any area except possibly in some areas of Naval Aviation. That's the only extensive training I've ever had. But I have noticed that all 2 or 3 UOA's of S2000 OEM fill that I've seen are a solid 20 wt after anywhere from 1000 to 7500 miles.
As far as 5w30 goes, I've seen enough dino oil UOA's that shear into a 20 wt to not consider this an intelligent choice, even in the SM/GF-4 rated stuff.
I think you are much better off trying at least a 5w30 blend, if not a full synthetic, if you want to try this weight. But as a word of caution, I've seen even full synthetics shear below a 30 wt on UOA's. Go to BITOG and do your homework if you want to use something other than what Honda recommends. There are some excellent choices out there in the 5w30 and 0w30 weight synthetics, but not for every application. I thought I had one all picked out to try myself (Castrol Syntec 0W30), but it's about to become extinct.
Good luck, have fun and post your UOA's after you've tried something new, so we can all learn from it.

Siphonlust

Thats why it took me like two days before posting. I was afraid of being flamed because I'm a noob on this site lol. But I'm glad I did because this is really good stuff! I'm sure a lot of people are learning a thing or two

SpitfireS

INDYMAC Posted on Apr 26 2007, 07:50 PM

Knowledge = power!

But.... if you don't and just use what the manual recommends (dino? 10W-30) you'll end up with a 20 weight too.

iDomN8U Posted on Apr 26 2007, 07:22 PM
Your manual is a great place to start.
No it won't
Besides, oil specs and formulations change quickly.

90crvtec Posted on Apr 26 2007, 01:29 PM

Why did I pick the Helix Ultra X 0W-30?
I wanted to use a 30 weight at operating temp.
Why? Because I think thats the oil viscosity the F20 / F22 was designed with/for.
Next wish was to get it as thin as possible when not at operating temp.
Was reading about that on AEHaas' website.
Enter 0W.
Wanted a ful syn, stay-in-grade oil.
Looked at a lot of websites, liked the Group IV&V Shell Helix X the most.
Because its thin, 9.6 cSt @ 100C
Because it has good ACEA ratings, A5/B5.
Because it is a genuine group IV/V oil.
Bought myself a case of 12 liters of the stuff.
Will post a UOA, but that will not be soon.
Intention is to run this oil for at least 17500 km, now at 4200 or so.