Oil Pan cracked/ threads stripped?
#1
Oil Pan cracked/ threads stripped?
Hey guys, so a while back when I was changing my oil, I was torquing down my drain plug and my torque wrench broke (not literally) at the same time (unbeknownst) to me. Thus I really overtightened the bolt. After a while, the drain plug started to leak (didn't get a new washer either), (I know lesson learned). Thus, I went to the dealership and bought an OEM Drain plug and washer and put that in and torque correctly to spec this time. No stripped threading on the old bolt, pan looked just fine. It still leaks ever so slightly maybe a teaspoon or less every 12h. Do you think that my pan is definitely stripped? I just don't want to replace oil pan. I feel like maybe I can just get another bolt and washer and try again. Not sure... A friend says he thinks theres a crack inline with the "I" in oil.
Added Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/eulIZ First 3 are 10 min after wipe, second 3 are directly after wipe.
Added Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/eulIZ First 3 are 10 min after wipe, second 3 are directly after wipe.
#4
I had a similar issue, but mine leaked a lot less, I thought it was a defective crush washer. Ended up getting a Fumoto valve for my next oil change, and used drain plug thread sealant, planning to never remove the valve ever, so I didn't care if it got stuck or anything like that.
#5
Try getting some yellow Teflon tape and wrapping a couple times around the pan bolt. Yellow is oil resistant, white is not. Home Depot or Lowes should have in the plumbing department. Probably costs about $2.95. I use it on the plugs on my MGA differential to eliminate weeping.
It may simply be the crush washer, but I appreciate that you don't want to tighten too much. You can re-anneal a copper crush washer by heating red hot with a torch and then letting cool.
It may simply be the crush washer, but I appreciate that you don't want to tighten too much. You can re-anneal a copper crush washer by heating red hot with a torch and then letting cool.
#6
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I had a similar issue, but mine leaked a lot less, I thought it was a defective crush washer. Ended up getting a Fumoto valve for my next oil change, and used drain plug thread sealant, planning to never remove the valve ever, so I didn't care if it got stuck or anything like that.
#7
I purchased the fumoto valve and adaptor and some thread sealant, I'll be putting that on when it come in. I really think the pan's not crack. Will report back with results.
Update: As promised, i used permatex thread sealant on the adapter and screwed the fumoto drain valve to the adapter by hand and IT WORKED. No leaks. So if you have a stripped thread or a leak coming from the bolt. Give this a try. Cost me about $40.
Update: As promised, i used permatex thread sealant on the adapter and screwed the fumoto drain valve to the adapter by hand and IT WORKED. No leaks. So if you have a stripped thread or a leak coming from the bolt. Give this a try. Cost me about $40.
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