oil light flickering at idle *sometimes*
06-07-2006, 12:35 PM
#11
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xviper Posted on Jun 7 2006, 05:46 PM
True.
Lets wait for darkfx
(Damn man.. first the clutch.. now that stupid light...)
Meanwhile... there is a list of VOA (virgin oil analasis) on BITOG of (among many others) Mobil 1 in both ranges.
cSt 100C ranges between 10.5 and 12.0.
The thinner one was (hold breath here)... Mobil 1 EP 10W-30.
Take a guess what the thicker one was.
Anyway..
I WILL eat my hat if it turns out to be just the oil.
Key word : just
Right before I pushed the "Add reply" I thought of a freak occurrence:
I will NOT eat my hat if it turns out that Mobil 1 5W-30 has been in there for 50.000 miles or so and sheared down to a 20 weight or worse.
Then I wil eat my shoe.
At this present time, it can't be determined if the OP's engine has any other inadequacies.
Lets wait for darkfx
(Damn man.. first the clutch.. now that stupid light...)
Meanwhile... there is a list of VOA (virgin oil analasis) on BITOG of (among many others) Mobil 1 in both ranges.
cSt 100C ranges between 10.5 and 12.0.
The thinner one was (hold breath here)... Mobil 1 EP 10W-30.
Take a guess what the thicker one was.
Anyway..
I WILL eat my hat if it turns out to be just the oil.
Key word : just
Right before I pushed the "Add reply" I thought of a freak occurrence:
I will NOT eat my hat if it turns out that Mobil 1 5W-30 has been in there for 50.000 miles or so and sheared down to a 20 weight or worse.
Then I wil eat my shoe.
06-07-2006, 01:16 PM
#12
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ok, just got back from the mechanic...
First time, the yellow/red wire going from the vtec solenoid to the oil pressure sensor (i think thats the sensor.. right by the oil filter) was bare and it was grounding itself out.. we reconnected the wire to the sensor and taped it w/ electrical tape to make sure it wouldnt come out again. That fixed the problem. I drove the car for a good 2 hours of running errands and idling with no oil light flicker.. woo... Then, as soon as I pull in my garage at home, I wanted to let it idle for a minute, and there is that f***cking light again! I think the oil pressure sensor might be bad, and its a 14 dollar part, so the mechanic wants to change that out first then troubleshoot from there. Another thing that I noticed during the 2 hours of driving, is that VTEC will not kick on! It rev's to 9k, but at about 8300rpm it feels like it has to push itself to redline and doesn't rev freely. I did that twice just to make sure the problem can be repeated.
Since VTEC is dependant on oil pressure, Im sure there is a problem somewhere, and these 2 issues go with eachother.
and for the record, I made a typo yesturday, I have Mobil 1 10w-30 in there right now. Sorry for the confusion.
also, the oil in the engine has about 400 miles on it, I just changed it 2-3 weeks ago. So no need to eat a shoe or hat, SpitfireS
First time, the yellow/red wire going from the vtec solenoid to the oil pressure sensor (i think thats the sensor.. right by the oil filter) was bare and it was grounding itself out.. we reconnected the wire to the sensor and taped it w/ electrical tape to make sure it wouldnt come out again. That fixed the problem. I drove the car for a good 2 hours of running errands and idling with no oil light flicker.. woo... Then, as soon as I pull in my garage at home, I wanted to let it idle for a minute, and there is that f***cking light again! I think the oil pressure sensor might be bad, and its a 14 dollar part, so the mechanic wants to change that out first then troubleshoot from there. Another thing that I noticed during the 2 hours of driving, is that VTEC will not kick on! It rev's to 9k, but at about 8300rpm it feels like it has to push itself to redline and doesn't rev freely. I did that twice just to make sure the problem can be repeated.
Since VTEC is dependant on oil pressure, Im sure there is a problem somewhere, and these 2 issues go with eachother.
and for the record, I made a typo yesturday, I have Mobil 1 10w-30 in there right now. Sorry for the confusion.
also, the oil in the engine has about 400 miles on it, I just changed it 2-3 weeks ago. So no need to eat a shoe or hat, SpitfireS
06-07-2006, 02:07 PM
#14
Originally Posted by darkfx,Jun 7 2006, 02:16 PM
and for the record, I made a typo yesturday, I have Mobil 1 10w-30 in there right now. Sorry for the confusion.
So no need to eat a shoe or hat, SpitfireS
So no need to eat a shoe or hat, SpitfireS
06-07-2006, 02:09 PM
#15
Still need to eliminate these:
Your oil pump seals may be getting old.
- Your oil pressure sender may not be sensing pressure as it should.
- You may have a faulty filter that doesn't flow well. I kinda doubt this, as Pure ONE is a leading oil filter. I've been using these for years in my S.
- You have an unusually low idle, thus making for slower oilpump speeds and lower pump pressures.
- Your oil pressure sender may not be sensing pressure as it should.
- You may have a faulty filter that doesn't flow well. I kinda doubt this, as Pure ONE is a leading oil filter. I've been using these for years in my S.
- You have an unusually low idle, thus making for slower oilpump speeds and lower pump pressures.
06-07-2006, 02:30 PM
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My Heinz Ketchup is a 90W-140.
I also use it in my diff.
Btw.. how do you safely test a low oil pressure problem?
Starting it may allready cause damage?
edit : added the question.
This is a technical post after all.
I also use it in my diff.
Btw.. how do you safely test a low oil pressure problem?
Starting it may allready cause damage?
edit : added the question.
This is a technical post after all.
06-07-2006, 02:37 PM
#19
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Jun 7 2006, 03:30 PM
Btw.. how do you safely test a low oil pressure problem?
Starting it may allready cause damage?
Starting it may allready cause damage?