zeroptzero

The thin vertical marks are where the cylinder scoring occurs, it just depends on how deep they are, some marks are just light surface markings on the cylinders, others are scrored/gouges into the cylinders.

Have a look into the oil pick-up screen while you are down there, using a bright light to look into the screen. If metal was up at the vtec solenoid screen it was sucked up through the oil pick-up screen and oil pump, enough of that could have damaged the cylinders.

nissanfanatic

That is a good sign. When my F20 spun a bearing, I could move the #3 rod laterally 1/4". Wishing you luck man!

rrounds

If my '06 S used oil or if I tracked my S, this would be one of the first things I'd put on my car.
http://www.airco.com.au/PDF/Adjustab...e_Switches.pdf
I would get a LED light and put it where I would see it(up on the dash) and have it set to turn on if my oil pressure dropped below 50 lbs, I wouldn't care if it was on at idle, I would want it to tell me if my oil pressure started to drop in the higher rpm's so I could "save my engine".
In the two years I've had my S I can't tell you how many engines have gone south because of low/no oil pressure just on S2KI alone.
That adjustable oil pressure switch would tell you when the pressure started to drop.

ROD

2000ths

pulled the first rod bearing. there is slight wear but obviously nothing that would have produced the debris in my oil pan. haven't looked at the other three but as mentioned they have no real play in them, just as tight as the one i pulled. so does this mean the debris is from my main bearing(s)? also tried to look up into the pick up screen. kinda hard to see but didn't seem like anything in there.

zeroptzero

Yeah if you don't find a really bad rod bearing or two, then obviously it was the main bearings that crapped out on you. At that point you should start looking for a donor block. Suprisingly once I got the engine torn apart the main bearings on my engine looked pretty smooth considering the chunks of metal they spit off , they were just very thin.

Sad to say that your story is starting to look like a carbon copy of my engine saga. I don't wish that on anyone.

2000ths

guh. i suppose the next question: is it worth trying to fix/rebuild with shot main bearings and possible scuffed cylinders? maybe easier just to get a new(used) engine or push my car off a cliff and start again...

_brandon

Nope, best bet is find a used engine sadly.. The cylinder are expensive to resleeve, cost to fix the block if the main bearings were shot and bad enough to do damage is expensive, and cranks are expensive. Best bet is to find a used block and rebuild it for a warm and fuzzy feeling inside.

zeroptzero

You just need a block, your head will be fine if it was in good shape when the motor went south. A brand new block from Majestic Honda is around $2,900, which isn't too bad, you can find a used block for less. You can try to sell the old block to someone that is looking to re-sleeve a block for boosting or racing purpose, they don't fetch much but you can get a few bucks for the parts.

I went with a used f20c block, and had all new bearings and piston rings installed, and we threw on a brand new ap2 oil pump for good measure, and swapped over my Mugen baffled oil pan. I had the valves lapped and had new valve seals installed on the original head.

4forall

Sorry to hear all this btw. Best of luck to you.

I just dont understand why you would buy a car w/o checking the oil first.

freq

He didn't mention if he left a nice tip cuz he's gonna need the "good karma".