oil light of death!
01-11-2013, 05:35 PM
#31
When it comes to bearing material (which it is), those pieces are considered huge. There will be a lot more material in the pan as it tends to get trapped behind the metal berm that is formed in the bottom of the pan, you will also find metal shavings sitting on top of the splash plate and even in the oil pump pick-up screen. The material can be too heavy to come out during a normal oil drain, it just tends to sit in place in the pan.
01-11-2013, 05:52 PM
#34
I would pull the pan and pop a couple rod bearing caps off to inspect for crank damage. If the crank isn't damaged, I'd try tossing in a new set of rod bearings, flushing the engine a couple times with some rotella, and seeing what happens.
01-12-2013, 10:05 AM
#35
Thread Starter
interesting. could be worth a shot. seems like a lot of people are suggesting that there is likely other damage like scuffed cylinders, or main bearing. is that something i can check for? oh, and what's rotella?!
01-12-2013, 11:29 AM
#36
It is just Shell Rotella oil. It is a really high detergent/additive diesel oil. Diesel engines run really dirty so detergents are a major requirement.
Probably do the T6 or maybe T1 just to flush the engine out.
It is likely that there is other damage, but it is certain that you won't know unless you look. A set of bearings would cost a heck of a lot less than an engine and take a lot less time to replace. With the oil pan off, you can also kind of inspect the cylinder walls. Pulling the oil pan takes maybe 20min once the car is in the air.
My car just went through something similar but mine developed rod knock on track for an unknown reason. I pulled the pan and found the fault pretty quick (On mine, I could move the rod by hand probably 1/8" to either side) You might get lucky as I have heard Billman say that he slapped another bearing into an engine with rod knock and it worked fine.
Probably do the T6 or maybe T1 just to flush the engine out.
It is likely that there is other damage, but it is certain that you won't know unless you look. A set of bearings would cost a heck of a lot less than an engine and take a lot less time to replace. With the oil pan off, you can also kind of inspect the cylinder walls. Pulling the oil pan takes maybe 20min once the car is in the air.
My car just went through something similar but mine developed rod knock on track for an unknown reason. I pulled the pan and found the fault pretty quick (On mine, I could move the rod by hand probably 1/8" to either side) You might get lucky as I have heard Billman say that he slapped another bearing into an engine with rod knock and it worked fine.
01-12-2013, 11:42 AM
#37
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Did you ever feel the engine hold back in a long turn on any track - or banked turn (oval) ?
Not as abruptly as the rev limiter but more like running slightly out of fuel (if you know what I mean.. cutting the fuel is what the rev limiter does but it does it 100%, what I mean with running out of fuel is " cutting" it to 50% or so)
Did you track on R-compounds?
I'm not sure a baffled oil pan is enough to prevent it.
A dry sump would
I am sure engines do not "just give up"
As long as there is enough oil going into the pump and pumped through the engine it will not be damaged.
Unless... you were running a crappy 20 weight energy saving (= low HTHS) dino oil through Death Valley at high noon with the engine pegged at 9k towing a 3 ton trailer.
But even then... I think it will not die.
Bearing damage happens when there is NO oil, even for a split second when there is (high) load.
01-12-2013, 11:54 AM
#38
Thread Starter
i've tracked it about 8-10 times over the last year at laguna seca and thunderhill. running on RS-3s and star specs, OEM oil pan. i must say the car has run like an absolute champ on the track. not one single issue. i check the oil at least a couple times on track days to make sure there is enough.
lowest the oil has ever gotten since i've owned the car is to the low mark on the dip stick but never on a track day.
lowest the oil has ever gotten since i've owned the car is to the low mark on the dip stick but never on a track day.
01-12-2013, 12:23 PM
#40
Definitely start by checking the rod bearings, if they are the only part that died you can possibly save it. If the rod bearings look good then it was your main bearings that died and you are better off with a new motor. When you drop the pan check the top of the baffle/splash shiled plate, if you have bearing material sitting on the top of the baffle plate it came from main bearings above it which also means the mains are dead. If the rod bearings are dead I don't now how you can check the mains without pulling the motor to confirm that the main bearings did not die with the rod bearings. I think the key is checking the top of the baffle/splash plate for bearing material. Also check the oil pick up screen for material inside of it.
As far as scuffed cylinders , like mentioned above you can see some of the cylinders from underneath with a good light source. My scuffed cylinder comment was based on the engine sound you mentioned at the start of the thread. If it sounded like a boxer engine or an engine with a misfire, that is likely from scuffed cylinders, but if your engine sounded more like a diesel engine that would have been closer to rod knock. You mentioned both in the first post, it would be interesting to know what it really sounded like if you can remember.
As far as scuffed cylinders , like mentioned above you can see some of the cylinders from underneath with a good light source. My scuffed cylinder comment was based on the engine sound you mentioned at the start of the thread. If it sounded like a boxer engine or an engine with a misfire, that is likely from scuffed cylinders, but if your engine sounded more like a diesel engine that would have been closer to rod knock. You mentioned both in the first post, it would be interesting to know what it really sounded like if you can remember.