Oil light blinking + Rattling Sound on high RPM
#41
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Just connect one of them. Can you see where they are located versus the old engine? Ideally connect the one that is in the same position as your old engine, but they may be in different places. If so, put up a pic and we can help.
Spitfire, I agree on the diff but I wasn't talking about that one.
MB
Spitfire, I agree on the diff but I wasn't talking about that one.
MB
#42
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Thanks MB, you've been of great help, I will get a picture up once the engine is out the banged car, currently its very tight to get hand inside and take a pic.
So you saying if i connect just one it would be fine? What about the other one, let it be there? or remove it and close the area? Why i say that the JDM engine has two of those for a reason i am sure.
So now we see things a bit clearer, i think stock ECU wont be a problem anymore.
So you saying if i connect just one it would be fine? What about the other one, let it be there? or remove it and close the area? Why i say that the JDM engine has two of those for a reason i am sure.
So now we see things a bit clearer, i think stock ECU wont be a problem anymore.
#43
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No problems.
Im quite sure it has 2 also.
I would just leave the spare one connected. You can always use it if the other one breaks! It will do no harm and the ECU will not know any different.
MB
Im quite sure it has 2 also.
I would just leave the spare one connected. You can always use it if the other one breaks! It will do no harm and the ECU will not know any different.
MB
#44
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excellent, so all clear and in goes the JDM engine!!!!
Thanks to everyone, speciall you MB and S2KI!!!!
Will keep you guys posted, while the engine is going in, i am doing alot of custom work, AC piping, heat shield custom fabircation, oil cooler pipers, gauges being wired covered with factory harness so you dont see many wires on the engine bay, battery and fuse box area will be covered completely with custom plate. And where ever i see rust or filth on the engine bay i paint it or clean it.
Thanks to everyone, speciall you MB and S2KI!!!!
Will keep you guys posted, while the engine is going in, i am doing alot of custom work, AC piping, heat shield custom fabircation, oil cooler pipers, gauges being wired covered with factory harness so you dont see many wires on the engine bay, battery and fuse box area will be covered completely with custom plate. And where ever i see rust or filth on the engine bay i paint it or clean it.
#46
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Dark Blue Mark Posted on Feb 21 2007, 09:51 AM
I know.. I just needed a reason to post a picture
umair_k Posted on Feb 20 2007, 11:45 AM
Well..
If Mobil 1 is a true synthetic is open for debate
Also becauseo MobilExxon is not going to confirm or deny their Mobil 1 oils are made off group III (mineral) base oils.
Maybe MobilExxon isn't allowed to call group III oils synthetic outside of the USA & Canada?
What I also like to know is the viscosity range.
I guess Dubai isn't the coldest place on Earth and tracking the car under those conditions may call for a xxW-40 weight synthetic oil.
True synthetic oil as in oil with a PAO (Polyalphaolefins) or Ester (or a mix) base oil.
Just to make sure you could do used oil analysis to confirm your oil is not shearing down (get thinner) too soon after use on the track.
Are you planning to install an oil temp / pressure gauge with your oil cooler?
Spitfire, I agree on the diff but I wasn't talking about that one.
umair_k Posted on Feb 20 2007, 11:45 AM
Engine oil is Mobil 1 full synthetic.
If Mobil 1 is a true synthetic is open for debate
Also becauseo MobilExxon is not going to confirm or deny their Mobil 1 oils are made off group III (mineral) base oils.
Maybe MobilExxon isn't allowed to call group III oils synthetic outside of the USA & Canada?
What I also like to know is the viscosity range.
I guess Dubai isn't the coldest place on Earth and tracking the car under those conditions may call for a xxW-40 weight synthetic oil.
True synthetic oil as in oil with a PAO (Polyalphaolefins) or Ester (or a mix) base oil.
Just to make sure you could do used oil analysis to confirm your oil is not shearing down (get thinner) too soon after use on the track.
Are you planning to install an oil temp / pressure gauge with your oil cooler?
#48
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This track day was a night event and weather these days is amazing in the night. We dont normally go for track days in summer. But yes this info that you have shared for the oil is good, will look into that.
Yes i am installing both the gauges, the only thing which i dont like is the gauges sitting on the pillar or on the dash. So i am removing the CD player and installing all 3 gauges there with a metal mount which got from japan.
I need to now a good place to mount the oil cooler and very decent pipe routing done and which one shall i get.
Yes i am installing both the gauges, the only thing which i dont like is the gauges sitting on the pillar or on the dash. So i am removing the CD player and installing all 3 gauges there with a metal mount which got from japan.
I need to now a good place to mount the oil cooler and very decent pipe routing done and which one shall i get.
#49
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Removed the engine from JDM car today, its looks like new!!!
It has only one knock sensor!!!! Could it be a UK model??? and no vtec pressure switch. (Earlier Post)
Will post some pics of the engine.
It has only one knock sensor!!!! Could it be a UK model??? and no vtec pressure switch. (Earlier Post)
Will post some pics of the engine.