oil light
01-30-2015, 06:54 PM
#31
01-30-2015, 07:26 PM
#32
I would advise you to stop driving it. My light came on after less than 1000 miles after a rebuild. I drove to my mechanic. After doing some tests the main bearings delaminated and i had to rebuild it again. Hate to be the barrier of bad news, but it looks like its time for a rebuild. My crank luckily wasn't scorned so i'll be able to just polish my crank.
01-31-2015, 09:54 AM
#33
I would advise you to stop driving it. My light came on after less than 1000 miles after a rebuild. I drove to my mechanic. After doing some tests the main bearings delaminated and i had to rebuild it again. Hate to be the barrier of bad news, but it looks like its time for a rebuild. My crank luckily wasn't scorned so i'll be able to just polish my crank.
Not necessarily, an oil test will tell a lot. IMO, nothing abnormal and he is good, maybe do a followup. Low levels of lead, maybe still good, do a followup or two to watch what the level does. Lead and copper, likely damanged a bearing beyond the point of no return.
01-31-2015, 10:31 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by cosmomiller' timestamp='1422674390' post='23488188
BTW, for reading clean oil on the dipstick, try glass beading the end or even sand a little to help the oil stand out.
I did the sanding as I do not have the blasting tool and don't know anyone who has. Sanding has helped a lot.
02-05-2015, 12:57 PM
#35
Couple quick things since you are new to this stuff....make sure to wait a few minutes at least after turning the engine off before checking the oil level to allow the oil to drain back to the pan.
Also, because its hard to read oil levels when the oil is clean, a trick I learned is that immediately after removing the dipstick, turn it upside down and read the level immediately. The oil will slightly "pool" and buildup at the top edge (which will be the bottom edge) when you flip it and it's way easier to read.
Also, because its hard to read oil levels when the oil is clean, a trick I learned is that immediately after removing the dipstick, turn it upside down and read the level immediately. The oil will slightly "pool" and buildup at the top edge (which will be the bottom edge) when you flip it and it's way easier to read.
02-05-2015, 12:58 PM
#36
If you kept the rpms and load low, your engine may be fine. If you were to vtec with 1.75 quarts remaining, it would pull the remaining oil out of the pan, drainback from the top end would not keep up, and you would suck air and lose all pressure (instant spun bearing).
There is a layer/pool of oil that sits between the windage tray and the block, that lines up with the full mark on the dipstick. This layer coats one side of the stick, resulting in a false reading.
Check it in the morming (the false layer drains off) and check both sides.
I have checked the oil on every car in existence, and the S2000 is the only car I know that has this problem.
There is a layer/pool of oil that sits between the windage tray and the block, that lines up with the full mark on the dipstick. This layer coats one side of the stick, resulting in a false reading.
Check it in the morming (the false layer drains off) and check both sides.
I have checked the oil on every car in existence, and the S2000 is the only car I know that has this problem.
So, I'll have to pay closer attention to both sides now and see if they are even...given that I don't have the windage tray anymore (Canton oil pan).
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