oil light
#21
So, either you damaged the rod bearings due to oil starvation, or you didn't. These oil sample tests everyone is discussing is one way to know.
If damage did occur, if you can find someone that knows how to do this, and most mechanics don't, you can polish the crank and replace the bearings, with the engine in the car. Not too expensive.
Vs waiting and seeing, which would be waiting to see if you get rod knock (a loud, knocking sound from deep inside the motor, most pronounced at idle). If you hear this, and stop motor immediately, it still may be possible to fix, but this means more damage has been done.
If damage did occur, if you can find someone that knows how to do this, and most mechanics don't, you can polish the crank and replace the bearings, with the engine in the car. Not too expensive.
Vs waiting and seeing, which would be waiting to see if you get rod knock (a loud, knocking sound from deep inside the motor, most pronounced at idle). If you hear this, and stop motor immediately, it still may be possible to fix, but this means more damage has been done.
#22
Start with the used oil sample - something like $30 est ?, from Blackstone labs, if it comes back clear you don't have to go any further.
#23
Moderator
If you didn't VTEC the engine during the entire period (from a few days before the oil light flickered until your oil change), I believe you will be fine.
For the record, the slightest flicker of that light after the car has been started is very bad.
For the record, the slightest flicker of that light after the car has been started is very bad.
#25
I'm new to cars man and I'm sure some others members we're too. The light never stayed on it flashed on and as soon as it did I started researching.
#26
#27
Go with Blackstone and explain the situation with all the details (low oil, drained, refilled, x miles, drained/sampled). They will provide very helpful feedback. My guess is you will have some elevated lead and iron, I would expect this given your situation, regardless of if it proves to be catostrophic as low oil will always = some increased wear. The question is was the wear significant enough to cause failure and Blackstone will be able to give you some idea, although they may need a followup from another change. I think if you have copper or a very significant amount of lead you may have issues, I would say elevated copper would deffinately be bad.
#28
Go with Blackstone and explain the situation with all the details (low oil, drained, refilled, x miles, drained/sampled). They will provide very helpful feedback. My guess is you will have some elevated lead and iron, I would expect this given your situation, regardless of if it proves to be catostrophic as low oil will always = some increased wear. The question is was the wear significant enough to cause failure and Blackstone will be able to give you some idea, although they may need a followup from another change. I think if you have copper or a very significant amount of lead you may have issues, I would say elevated copper would deffinately be bad.
#29
Originally Posted by bgoetz' timestamp='1422588306' post='23486924
Go with Blackstone and explain the situation with all the details (low oil, drained, refilled, x miles, drained/sampled). They will provide very helpful feedback. My guess is you will have some elevated lead and iron, I would expect this given your situation, regardless of if it proves to be catostrophic as low oil will always = some increased wear. The question is was the wear significant enough to cause failure and Blackstone will be able to give you some idea, although they may need a followup from another change. I think if you have copper or a very significant amount of lead you may have issues, I would say elevated copper would deffinately be bad.
#30
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Foothills East of Sacramento
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BTW, for reading clean oil on the dipstick, try glass beading the end or even sand a little to help the oil stand out.