Oil Jet Bolt #1 Woes....
#1
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This weekend I pulled my oil pan and did the oil jet bolt update. I got all of the old 2-hole bolts out easy enough. Then on the reinstall I started with the #1 cylinder as it is obviously the hardest. I tried for a good amount of time and I just couldn't get the threads to start... I am using an extension with a wobble topped with the 10mm socket. I used electrical tape to make the wobble more solid and less likely to flop around and just cannot seem to get the bolt to start threading... I borrowed this pic from twohoos (hope he doesn't mind) to show what I'm talking about.
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Now what I am curious about is why doesn't one just remove the oil pump pick-up assembly that is blocking a straight shot to the #1 oil jet location? I know that nobody in any thread on this subject has ever mentioned it. So my question is why isn't this done and how did you who have done this get it accomplished?
What tools did you use or tricks did you discover?
Thanks for your help!
Now what I am curious about is why doesn't one just remove the oil pump pick-up assembly that is blocking a straight shot to the #1 oil jet location? I know that nobody in any thread on this subject has ever mentioned it. So my question is why isn't this done and how did you who have done this get it accomplished?
What tools did you use or tricks did you discover?
Thanks for your help!
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I believe I used multiple extensions/u-joints at once. It does take time and is very frustrating at times. Just keep at it until you get it threaded, only use finger strength to tighten it when you think you have it threaded so you do not strip the block. Took me about half an hour to get cylinder #1 threaded.
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Originally Posted by TheCarGuy2021,Jan 20 2008, 09:14 PM
I believe I used multiple extensions/u-joints at once. It does take time and is very frustrating at times. Just keep at it until you get it threaded, only use finger strength to tighten it when you think you have it threaded so you do not strip the block. Took me about half an hour to get cylinder #1 threaded.
Anybody else with a magic way to make it 100x easier perhaps?
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Originally Posted by cdelena,Jan 21 2008, 11:24 AM
I used a flex shaft and that is what Honda specifies in the TSB doc from the UK.
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I believe it has actually been mentioned about removing the oil pickup assembly to get a straight shot, but most people find it to be less work then simply fussing with extensions and flex shafts.
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i looked at the write up on how to do this, as i may be suffering from this same problem... the reason the oil pickup isn't pulled is because you also have to pull the belt, pulley, and front cover to unmount it and remove it. check out the DIY section and read the write-up, plenty of good info in there.
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#8
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IIRC the oil pump drive chain is behind the timing chain.
To remove the pump you would have to remove the front cover, valve cover, idler gear, and lower pulley. And if youhave a 3mm gasket like I do there is no way of getting the top pulley back in without removing the VTEC assembly and valve train.
I used a flex drive and about 3L of patience.
To remove the pump you would have to remove the front cover, valve cover, idler gear, and lower pulley. And if youhave a 3mm gasket like I do there is no way of getting the top pulley back in without removing the VTEC assembly and valve train.
I used a flex drive and about 3L of patience.
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Try installing the new bolt in one of the easier cylinders. That way you'll have a sense of how it feels when the oil jet bolt threads in correctly. Also, make sure that the dowel is corectly seated in the hole in the block before you tighten the assembly. I've done several installations and the #1 cylinder is a challenge. The angle you need to achieve to get it to thread in properly is always different than I expect. I have been successful with a taped universal joint on the end of an extension. As suggested above, only use finger strength to get it to thread in. If it jams, back off and try again.
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