Oil Drain Bolt Torque Spec Question
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Oil Drain Bolt Torque Spec Question
I have a 2005 S2000 and I am planning to change my oil for the first time tomorrow. I wanted to know if the torque specs on the 2.2 liter motor is the same as the 2.0 ilter motors. Based on the 2000-2003 manual my friend has and the PDF on this site, the spec is 39N-m or 29lbf-ft. I have a wrench that can torque this, so I am not that worried about this.
Also, I have 80 days (since I bought brand new on Aug 4, 2005) of driving with 5100 miles and 2 autocrosses, is this too soon to put OEM Honda Mobil 10w30 oil in it and the OEM Honda PCX filter? I am not planning to go synthetic until sometime after 10k miles. I bought the oil, oil filter and bolt cruch washer from my local dealership today.
Also, I have 80 days (since I bought brand new on Aug 4, 2005) of driving with 5100 miles and 2 autocrosses, is this too soon to put OEM Honda Mobil 10w30 oil in it and the OEM Honda PCX filter? I am not planning to go synthetic until sometime after 10k miles. I bought the oil, oil filter and bolt cruch washer from my local dealership today.
#2
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I think you mean the oil drain bolt, not the oil pan bolts, right?
If so, it sounds like you're good to go. I don't have the specifications on the F22C engine, but I'd be very surprised if the torque specification on the drain bolt is different since the same oil pan is used.
Here's another suggestion. Put some molybdenum additive into your replacement oil as that compound has been identified as important in engine break-in for the S2000. See the Oil Journals for more information.
If so, it sounds like you're good to go. I don't have the specifications on the F22C engine, but I'd be very surprised if the torque specification on the drain bolt is different since the same oil pan is used.
Here's another suggestion. Put some molybdenum additive into your replacement oil as that compound has been identified as important in engine break-in for the S2000. See the Oil Journals for more information.
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Where can I buy this molybdenum additive stuff, PepBoys, Advance Auto, etc....?
Also, is there any issue with using drive on ramps or a jack while changing the oil? The pan appears to have several cavities in it and I was wondering if the car needs to be falt to drain the oil.
Also, is there any issue with using drive on ramps or a jack while changing the oil? The pan appears to have several cavities in it and I was wondering if the car needs to be falt to drain the oil.
#4
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Originally Posted by daytontp,Oct 23 2005, 10:22 AM
... and I was wondering if the car needs to be falt to drain the oil.
The car should be level when you drain and refill with oil. What I usually do is drive the front wheels up onto ramps, use a hydraulic jack to lift the rear of the car using the jack point on the differential, place jack stands under the side rail support/jacking points and then do the work.
It is possible to do an oil change with the car sitting on the ground, but you need to have a low-profile oil drain pan and orangutan arms to reach the drain bolt. It's pretty easy to remove/install the oil filter from above, and that's how I do it even when the car is up on ramps & stands.
I don't know where to buy the moly stuff locally. I purchased a product called Mr. Moly break-in additive via internet shopping. I've heard that other companies offer similar products at local automotive chain stores too. Just look for products that are designed for engine break-in and check to see that it has high molybdenum content in it.
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Sorry, I meant flat, not falt. Thanks. Looking at the oil pan, it appears as if the front was just on ramps that not all of the oil would come out.
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