N777CK T

So what do good compression teat results look like in an F20? Is that 235 psi bgoetz??

bgoetz

Yeah, psi. I think most range between 220 and 240. The key is consistent results between cylinders, with equal number of cranks (I think I do 8 or so).

This is my 2nd S2k, the first one I drove myself nuts looking for problems, always searching this forum for solutions to issues that didn't exist. There is being attentive and catching things that are obvious before they do damage, then there is just being Paranoid. In the end I drove myself and my wife nuts and really didn't have the fun I should have had. I sold the car and I bet that sucker is still issue free to this day. These engines are pretty strong engines,it takes a lot to kill them and for the most part if there is a real problem there will be no mistaking it. These cars make lots of crazy noises and do have a couple strange quirks (see TCT, clutch buzz, torn top, and oil consumption). My strategy with the new one is to maintain it the best I can, but not to hunt problems, if something is broken or breaking eventually I will figure it out. Aside from the retainers (which I did check) and the oil squirters (which I may replace this winter), there are not too many things where catching it early pays off.

Now you noticed you are consuming oil, that is great now you know to keep a close eye on the dip stick. Some people also have better luck with different types of oil, so maybe experiment with this a bit. Other than that have fun with the car and drive the crap out of it, if something breaks fix it.

N777CK T

Right so I haven't actually done anything apart from track my oil consumption for the past 3000 miles / 3 months.

The results are in! Basically I'm averaging having to top up 2 litres of oil for every 1,000 miles I do.
I guess this is bad!

What should I do? It's a pain having to keep such a close eye on it, not too bad during the summer months but now its coming to a long wet winter in the UK and I'd rather not be under the bonnet!!

For reference here is my record:

jkelley

That's a bit much. BTW your spark plugs look very good (to me, but I'm not a mechanic).
Oil can go in a number of places: burned through exhaust valves, PCV valve to intake which essentially gets burned, excess piston-to-wall clearance from bad piston rings resulting in burning, head gasket leak to ground or into coolant channel, other gasket leaks to ground, etc (there's more I'm sure). There's plenty of 4-cylinder engine threads all over the internet that have clues as to which one it may be. Typically the first thing to do when troubleshooting is to see if you see or smell anything out of the norm, then run a comp and leakdown test.

Normal compression numbers can range from 190 psi to 240 psi, but by normal I mean:

190-193-191-192 = normal
233-235-231-232 = normal
190-234-235-232 = NOT NORMAL

if you know what I mean.

hirev

Add to what has been said, your plugs look good . So the oil is not being burned? look for a leak?

windhund116

If you decelerate using a lower gear to help slow you --- and you gun the engine (say coming down a hilly road) --- does a lot of blue smoke go out the exhaust? This could be oil passing through the valve stem seals, due to the higher vacuum caused by the revving engine, under no load. A sign that the engine might need new valve seals & maybe guides.
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street_ruler

Thats the first accurate post about how to test for valve stem seals failing.


if this happens under heavy load regardless of vacuum just moments before, then its more likely rings. and rings can lead to 1 of two big issues that cause oil consumption. Either the oil is not properly scavenged from the cylinder walls and is combusted or, the pressure of combustion causes blowbly forcing oil out of the PCV valve.


AP1's are kind of notorious for oil burning under heavy cornering loads the PCV valve will dump oil into the manifold. Simple solution is a catch tank. wont keep you from needing to top off the oil, but will keep it form being burned up and potentially fouling plugs

N777CK T

It's hard to explain exactly when blue smoke comes out the exhaust, I only noticed a big puff of it the other week pulling away from a roundabout.

It's annoying because there doesn't seem to be any real problem apart from the oil consumption. I guess I want peace of mind about it.

I've just ordered 10 litres of Fuchs Titan Race Pro S Ester Synthetic 10w40 so that I have plenty to top up with and a hamp filter, so we'll see how it goes after the oil change as see if it makes a difference to the Castrol Edge 10w40 that I've been using.

Maybe as bgoetz says, I'm looking into it too much and all I really have to do is check the oil regularly which isn't too bad I guess.

When I do the oil change I'll put it on the ramps and have a proper look for leaks too. It does look like it's burning it though if it ends out through the exhaust. Unless an oil catch can would prove this theory otherwise with some oil being spat into the air intake too? (If I understand how it works correctly!)

s2000Junky

You have to go through quite a bit of oil before the plugs signs are readily apparent or all out fouled in my experience, like 1Q every 300 miles. These plugs look pretty good, but oil can still be burned. Leaks are easy to find at the rate this oil is disappearing, and there is only two ways for oil to go, being burned or being leaked. "usage" is a feel better term for being burned.

To the OP, I would try switching brand oils, as some such as Mobil1 for example have a very high cook off rate, meaning the properties that make up their formula evaporate much quicker during the heat up/running process then many other oils tested on the market.

You can move to the proper rated 10/30w to start with as well, this has a thicker colder start up viscosity and is actually what is designated for the car, and could be where at least part of your burning is being done.

You can move to a standard oil, if you are currently using a full synthetic. Not only is this cheaper if your going through it like you are, but standard oil has a bit more “traction” over the more slippery syn oils and can usually help slow down some burning.

Finally moving up to a 10/40w is another avenue you can try towards reducing your burning. Any thicker viscosity in the hot flow is not a good idea on this motor due to bearing clearances on this motor. But 10/40 is plenty fine.

jack03ap1

I vented crankcase to atmosphere it reduce my oil consumption night and day