Oil Change - Smoke and Vtec not pulling as well
04-10-2009, 02:07 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hey all,
So I changed the oil filter to the original Honda Filter. I made sure the part number matched what I saw here on the forum. NOw I don't know how much to tighten it...it says 7/8 on the filter..I have no clue what that means....I also don't have the tool they mention... I just did it as tight as I could get it, without over tightening it.... will it be okay??
So I changed the oil filter to the original Honda Filter. I made sure the part number matched what I saw here on the forum. NOw I don't know how much to tighten it...it says 7/8 on the filter..I have no clue what that means....I also don't have the tool they mention... I just did it as tight as I could get it, without over tightening it.... will it be okay??
04-10-2009, 08:34 PM
#22
7/8 of a turn after the seal meets the surface. I don't know if it will be ok because I don't know how strong you are. LOL
I have done 6 oil/filter changes in the past year with mobil 1 products. I don't use any filter tool and havent had any issues.
I have done 6 oil/filter changes in the past year with mobil 1 products. I don't use any filter tool and havent had any issues.
04-11-2009, 02:56 AM
#23
Registered User
I hand tighten my oil filters too. If you tighten them too much, you might damage the filter and/or it becomes very difficult to take off. Just double check that it isn't leaking or loosening when you check your oil. I check the oil once/week before it's started (cold).
04-11-2009, 04:17 AM
#24
I read that you checked and it is fine, but as others have said be very careful of a lose oil filter!
On the oil weight, I would say a 5w oil is much better for your car vs. the 10w if you start the car in colder weather. The second number (30 vs. 40) is the operating temperature weight, 40 being the thicker more protective weight and 30 the thinner more efficent on gas weight.
One would think that the thicker oil may sap a touch of power (.5-1wp) and give you worse fuel economy; however, tests that we did with a K20 engine and different oils did not show this was the case, atleast when comparing oils from different groups (I-V).
To make a long story a bit shorter, we comparted Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 (group III I think) to Eneos 5w-40 (group V). Dyno after dyno showed better whp numbers consistantly across the entire power band, typically by 1-3whp. Numerous people have consistantly experianced better gas mileage with the Eneos as well, including myself.
So my thought it that it is not so much the weight of the oil as it is the oil itself. If we would have compared a Mobil one 30 and 40 oil I would think that we would see a slight loss of power and fuel efficency, but the Eneos was such a better oil that even at an increased weight the oil far exceeded the lighter weight Mobil 1.
Another interesting thing that we noticed with the Eneos, was on hotter pulls with the fan off the Eneos put out consitant power, while the Mobil 1 actually dropped in power.
I just want to clarify to the OP that I am not suggesting that you are noticing a loss of 1-2whp from changing to a different oil, what you described sounded like somthing a bit different, like an issue with the Vtec cylinoid (which should not have been an issue from changing your oil)I am just providing some information regarding what I know about oil.
With all of that said, I have been using Eneos 5w-40 in my S2k since I have owned ith and don't plan on changing.
On the oil weight, I would say a 5w oil is much better for your car vs. the 10w if you start the car in colder weather. The second number (30 vs. 40) is the operating temperature weight, 40 being the thicker more protective weight and 30 the thinner more efficent on gas weight.
One would think that the thicker oil may sap a touch of power (.5-1wp) and give you worse fuel economy; however, tests that we did with a K20 engine and different oils did not show this was the case, atleast when comparing oils from different groups (I-V).
To make a long story a bit shorter, we comparted Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 (group III I think) to Eneos 5w-40 (group V). Dyno after dyno showed better whp numbers consistantly across the entire power band, typically by 1-3whp. Numerous people have consistantly experianced better gas mileage with the Eneos as well, including myself.
So my thought it that it is not so much the weight of the oil as it is the oil itself. If we would have compared a Mobil one 30 and 40 oil I would think that we would see a slight loss of power and fuel efficency, but the Eneos was such a better oil that even at an increased weight the oil far exceeded the lighter weight Mobil 1.
Another interesting thing that we noticed with the Eneos, was on hotter pulls with the fan off the Eneos put out consitant power, while the Mobil 1 actually dropped in power.
I just want to clarify to the OP that I am not suggesting that you are noticing a loss of 1-2whp from changing to a different oil, what you described sounded like somthing a bit different, like an issue with the Vtec cylinoid (which should not have been an issue from changing your oil)I am just providing some information regarding what I know about oil.
With all of that said, I have been using Eneos 5w-40 in my S2k since I have owned ith and don't plan on changing.
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