Oil change and a lowered suspension - DIY?
#11
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Depending on how much clearance you need you could use 2x6 blocks. Drive up on 4 of them...now you have another 1.5 inches of clearance. thats what I do to be able to get my floor jack under the car.
#12
ya i would go with the blocks, mines 2 in drop in the front and 1.5 in the rear. and its pretty low. i cant even stick floor jack on the sides. i have to drive up somthing
#13
This is classic. Why are you all trying to move the 3000-lb object UP, when you could move the 3-oz object DOWN??
Dude, like xviper says, get a shallower drain pan!
Dude, like xviper says, get a shallower drain pan!
#14
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well - its nice to just have a shallow drain pan - but its nicer to be able to get under the car and work on it comfortably, inspect the drivetrain, oil pan, rubber boots, etc.
i have a low profile jack made by AC that I got from harbor freight that scoots under the rear no problem. When i have the rear jacked up and the front on ramps - i can get on my low profile creeper and have all sorts of room. Plus - having the adjustability of the rear height makes it easy to drain fluids - and when its time to drain the diff - I use jack stands.
i have a low profile jack made by AC that I got from harbor freight that scoots under the rear no problem. When i have the rear jacked up and the front on ramps - i can get on my low profile creeper and have all sorts of room. Plus - having the adjustability of the rear height makes it easy to drain fluids - and when its time to drain the diff - I use jack stands.
#16
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by thereisnospoon
well - its nice to just have a shallow drain pan - but its nicer to be able to get under the car and work on it comfortably, inspect the drivetrain, oil pan, rubber boots, etc.
i have a low profile jack made by AC that I got from harbor freight that scoots under the rear no problem.
well - its nice to just have a shallow drain pan - but its nicer to be able to get under the car and work on it comfortably, inspect the drivetrain, oil pan, rubber boots, etc.
i have a low profile jack made by AC that I got from harbor freight that scoots under the rear no problem.
#17
As individual owners in our own garages, we tend to do all manner of things to "get the job done". I have those 2 X 10 wood blocks and I use them for certain jobs. I also use jackstands a lot.
As far as "driving" a lowered car up on ramps, I didn't think there existed any ramps that were shallow enough of a rise that you could actually do this. Now, to drive up onto 4 ramps, I would think this would be nearly impossible on a stock height car let alone a lowered one.
The original puzzle was how to collect the oil once the car was brought back to level. It would seem that there was NOT a problem of jacking the car up as the original poster had that taken care of.
For an oil change, you can "put" the lowered car up on ramps (although you might not "drive" it up) to drain the oil, but you will always have to get that car back to level to properly fill it. (A side thought: Since the drain hole for the engine oil is near the front, would not a "nose up" attitude be counterproductive to get a decent drain?)
Now, if you are looking at working on the underside of the car and you have to get the thing up onto ramps (assuming you can't drive a lowered car up it), why not just jack it up and put stands under it? And if you are going to go to the trouble of jacking it up just to put it onto 4 ramps, why not just put 4 stands under it?
As far as "driving" a lowered car up on ramps, I didn't think there existed any ramps that were shallow enough of a rise that you could actually do this. Now, to drive up onto 4 ramps, I would think this would be nearly impossible on a stock height car let alone a lowered one.
The original puzzle was how to collect the oil once the car was brought back to level. It would seem that there was NOT a problem of jacking the car up as the original poster had that taken care of.
For an oil change, you can "put" the lowered car up on ramps (although you might not "drive" it up) to drain the oil, but you will always have to get that car back to level to properly fill it. (A side thought: Since the drain hole for the engine oil is near the front, would not a "nose up" attitude be counterproductive to get a decent drain?)
Now, if you are looking at working on the underside of the car and you have to get the thing up onto ramps (assuming you can't drive a lowered car up it), why not just jack it up and put stands under it? And if you are going to go to the trouble of jacking it up just to put it onto 4 ramps, why not just put 4 stands under it?
#18
Thread Starter
Yup, logic was bound to figure into it eventually.
I tried to line up the ramps for the rear tires, and they are WAY too tall to get under the car - oops. Visualizing a solution and executing are sometimes VERY different.
I ended up with the 2x wood/ramp trick for the fronts. On my very sloped driveway I was able to achieve a pretty level attitude with the fronts on ramps and the rear end on the ground. I used a level to verify.
Now that the logistics are worked out I can actually DO the oil change today, instead of talking about it.
Thanx to XViper and all you guys.
Time to go get messy after work - with gloves ofcourse.
Hockey
I tried to line up the ramps for the rear tires, and they are WAY too tall to get under the car - oops. Visualizing a solution and executing are sometimes VERY different.
I ended up with the 2x wood/ramp trick for the fronts. On my very sloped driveway I was able to achieve a pretty level attitude with the fronts on ramps and the rear end on the ground. I used a level to verify.
Now that the logistics are worked out I can actually DO the oil change today, instead of talking about it.
Thanx to XViper and all you guys.
Time to go get messy after work - with gloves ofcourse.
Hockey
#19
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I got an idea.... hehehehe.... make a recession into the ground (sorta like the lube shops have) and simply drive over... get out roll under. Partial joke fellas but a good idea nontheless.