OEM Shock Replacement
03-18-2021, 02:31 PM
#21
The OEM '00-'01 shocks are discontinued, but all other years are still available. Individual spring availability is spotty; the full shock absorber assembly (w/ springs, top hats, hardware) isn't available for any model year.
03-18-2021, 10:34 PM
#22
Bilstein minimum lowering is 10 mm / 0,39 Inches. Thats O.K.
From what i read in german S2000 forums, every Bilstein owner says that the springs ar softer, but the car feels better and you are faster neverthelss.
I think the old rule of hill racers "Hard stabilizers, soft springs" is a tempting experiemnt. Will see.
As good OEM replacement, Koni yellows are the way to go it seems.
From what i read in german S2000 forums, every Bilstein owner says that the springs ar softer, but the car feels better and you are faster neverthelss.
I think the old rule of hill racers "Hard stabilizers, soft springs" is a tempting experiemnt. Will see.
As good OEM replacement, Koni yellows are the way to go it seems.
03-18-2021, 10:53 PM
#23
I wish Koni yellow was a suitable oem replacement. They have a lot of potential, and can be rebuilt and tuned to be excellent performers, for whatever your needs are. But out of the box they have less compression damping than the stock shocks.
This makes them comfortable, but they dive more on hard braking and wallow more in abrupt maneuvering, even on the street.
Tuning them can eliminate that, but then the overall cost ends up being almost as expensive as some really great street based coilovers (Ohlins comes to mind).
The aftermarket suspension that is closest to oem, in design, in performance, that is cost effective, rebuildable, warrantied, durable, comfortable, is the Bilstein pss. That is why it comes up so often in oem replacement discussions.
They are clearly targeted to street, as their spring rates outta the box are too low for any serious track work. Bilstein rates are close to stock CR springs.
They can be rebuilt by pretty much any place that rebuilds shocks. They use the same monotube design as oem, with the same external rear reservoir. The internal components are the same as Bilstein uses for all their race stuff, and there are a gazillion choices for damping profiles, so no worries about parts not being made anymore, and your choices for performance come rebuild time are endless (if you want to change anything).
They are warrantied for life, so you can always send them back and get new oneswhen they wear out (you buy new ones, and so long as the old ones weren't abused or misused when they inspect them, they give you refund. That way no downtime for your car waiting on parts to be returned).
They last longer before they wear out than most anything out there, except perhaps oem (but oem are one and done, Bilstein is for life). Except for the external appearance. They use a zinc coating which looks shiney when new, but quickly turns weathered. But its cosmetic only. Inside they are a tank.
You will have to keep buying new oem shocks as they wear out, and eventually they will stop making them. Meanwhile Bilstein is forever.
So for about the same cost as oem, you can get something that is similar, but superior, that you don't have to throw out when they wear out.
This makes them comfortable, but they dive more on hard braking and wallow more in abrupt maneuvering, even on the street.
Tuning them can eliminate that, but then the overall cost ends up being almost as expensive as some really great street based coilovers (Ohlins comes to mind).
The aftermarket suspension that is closest to oem, in design, in performance, that is cost effective, rebuildable, warrantied, durable, comfortable, is the Bilstein pss. That is why it comes up so often in oem replacement discussions.
They are clearly targeted to street, as their spring rates outta the box are too low for any serious track work. Bilstein rates are close to stock CR springs.
They can be rebuilt by pretty much any place that rebuilds shocks. They use the same monotube design as oem, with the same external rear reservoir. The internal components are the same as Bilstein uses for all their race stuff, and there are a gazillion choices for damping profiles, so no worries about parts not being made anymore, and your choices for performance come rebuild time are endless (if you want to change anything).
They are warrantied for life, so you can always send them back and get new oneswhen they wear out (you buy new ones, and so long as the old ones weren't abused or misused when they inspect them, they give you refund. That way no downtime for your car waiting on parts to be returned).
They last longer before they wear out than most anything out there, except perhaps oem (but oem are one and done, Bilstein is for life). Except for the external appearance. They use a zinc coating which looks shiney when new, but quickly turns weathered. But its cosmetic only. Inside they are a tank.
You will have to keep buying new oem shocks as they wear out, and eventually they will stop making them. Meanwhile Bilstein is forever.
So for about the same cost as oem, you can get something that is similar, but superior, that you don't have to throw out when they wear out.
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windhund116 (03-19-2021)
03-18-2021, 11:04 PM
#24
Hondassport - Thanks for the FYI! I have several Hondas that may be in need of shock/spring replacement, so I may bite the bullet and purchase one, since price point is not that bad. Or, may do it the primitive way, with a heavy or stronger-than-me friend. But may source AutoZone for the task if I go solo.
03-19-2021, 06:11 AM
#25
You should not need a spring compressor on this car. Loosen the top nut partially and you should be able to verify that the spring frees up before you take the nut completely off.
In many cases if you do not have one and need one (or in cases where the standard ones people have will not work with your springs.. some Toyotas are known for this) you can also use the car as the spring compressor too most times. Car on stands, jack up a bit under control arm, remove top nut, lower jack slowly to remove compression on spring, remove assembly from car. Then reverse to install. Works in a pinch. On our Tacoma, the standard spring compressors just do not work well, or even at all due to the construction of the springs, and I have used this method there. This method is not advised on cars with really soft springs with lots of travel since the shaft may exit the bottom of the top hat before the spring is fully extended which removes the safety from this, but for most street cars people do it this way sometimes. As long as the shaft is in the top hat and bottom of shock is bolted in, there is no way for the spring to pop out and come flying at you.
In many cases if you do not have one and need one (or in cases where the standard ones people have will not work with your springs.. some Toyotas are known for this) you can also use the car as the spring compressor too most times. Car on stands, jack up a bit under control arm, remove top nut, lower jack slowly to remove compression on spring, remove assembly from car. Then reverse to install. Works in a pinch. On our Tacoma, the standard spring compressors just do not work well, or even at all due to the construction of the springs, and I have used this method there. This method is not advised on cars with really soft springs with lots of travel since the shaft may exit the bottom of the top hat before the spring is fully extended which removes the safety from this, but for most street cars people do it this way sometimes. As long as the shaft is in the top hat and bottom of shock is bolted in, there is no way for the spring to pop out and come flying at you.
03-19-2021, 11:23 PM
#26
Bilstein minimum lowering is 10 mm / 0,39 Inches. Thats O.K.
From what i read in german S2000 forums, every Bilstein owner says that the springs ar softer, but the car feels better and you are faster neverthelss.
I think the old rule of hill racers "Hard stabilizers, soft springs" is a tempting experiemnt. Will see.
As good OEM replacement, Koni yellows are the way to go it seems.
From what i read in german S2000 forums, every Bilstein owner says that the springs ar softer, but the car feels better and you are faster neverthelss.
I think the old rule of hill racers "Hard stabilizers, soft springs" is a tempting experiemnt. Will see.
As good OEM replacement, Koni yellows are the way to go it seems.
03-20-2021, 06:04 AM
#27
Registered User
I was thinking about of MAYBE bying Bilstein in the Future. Maybe. i have to make up my mind. But i read the paper work for germany (TUV Papers) and Bilstein wrote that the Minimum lowering is 10 mm.
In my opinion, that is a big Plus: First, you dont need to lower the S2000 more, it is already a very low car. Second, if you read through S2000 forums, there are hints that the driveshaft cups wear out much faster when the car is lowerd to much.
Oh, and sorry: I mistook a word in my last posting here. I meant SWAYBARS not stabilizers. "Hard Swaybars, soft springs" is supposed to be a good combiantion. Sorry. Sometimes my brain does not switch to english without tiny little mistakes.
I found this Rule of thumb "Hard Swaybars, soft springs" from the best book about suspensoion you could buy in Germany.
https://www.motorbuch.de/index.php?F...0145350&navid=
This Book is eye opening and VERY comprehensive. It is almost too deep in detail. The author also used a S2000 in racing and mentioned the S2000 sometimes in his book.
In my opinion, that is a big Plus: First, you dont need to lower the S2000 more, it is already a very low car. Second, if you read through S2000 forums, there are hints that the driveshaft cups wear out much faster when the car is lowerd to much.
Oh, and sorry: I mistook a word in my last posting here. I meant SWAYBARS not stabilizers. "Hard Swaybars, soft springs" is supposed to be a good combiantion. Sorry. Sometimes my brain does not switch to english without tiny little mistakes.
I found this Rule of thumb "Hard Swaybars, soft springs" from the best book about suspensoion you could buy in Germany.
https://www.motorbuch.de/index.php?F...0145350&navid=
This Book is eye opening and VERY comprehensive. It is almost too deep in detail. The author also used a S2000 in racing and mentioned the S2000 sometimes in his book.
03-20-2021, 09:21 AM
#28
Stabilizers is valid English term to use
Swaybar is a misnomer. The correct term is anti rollbar or stabilizer bar. Swaybar is most often used, and everyone knows what you mean, but technically incorrect.
Stabilizer bars inhibit the independence of independent suspension. Negates some of its benefits. So definitely a limit to how much of your spring rate should come from the springs vs from the bars.
Some even prefer to run without a rear swaybar at all.
On the street I personally prefer the configuration you espouse, stiffer bars, softer springs. But probably not the best Choice for the track.
Swaybar is a misnomer. The correct term is anti rollbar or stabilizer bar. Swaybar is most often used, and everyone knows what you mean, but technically incorrect.
Stabilizer bars inhibit the independence of independent suspension. Negates some of its benefits. So definitely a limit to how much of your spring rate should come from the springs vs from the bars.
Some even prefer to run without a rear swaybar at all.
On the street I personally prefer the configuration you espouse, stiffer bars, softer springs. But probably not the best Choice for the track.
03-20-2021, 11:42 PM
#30
You should not need a spring compressor on this car. Loosen the top nut partially and you should be able to verify that the spring frees up before you take the nut completely off.
In many cases if you do not have one and need one (or in cases where the standard ones people have will not work with your springs.. some Toyotas are known for this) you can also use the car as the spring compressor too most times. Car on stands, jack up a bit under control arm, remove top nut, lower jack slowly to remove compression on spring, remove assembly from car. Then reverse to install. Works in a pinch. On our Tacoma, the standard spring compressors just do not work well, or even at all due to the construction of the springs, and I have used this method there. This method is not advised on cars with really soft springs with lots of travel since the shaft may exit the bottom of the top hat before the spring is fully extended which removes the safety from this, but for most street cars people do it this way sometimes. As long as the shaft is in the top hat and bottom of shock is bolted in, there is no way for the spring to pop out and come flying at you.
In many cases if you do not have one and need one (or in cases where the standard ones people have will not work with your springs.. some Toyotas are known for this) you can also use the car as the spring compressor too most times. Car on stands, jack up a bit under control arm, remove top nut, lower jack slowly to remove compression on spring, remove assembly from car. Then reverse to install. Works in a pinch. On our Tacoma, the standard spring compressors just do not work well, or even at all due to the construction of the springs, and I have used this method there. This method is not advised on cars with really soft springs with lots of travel since the shaft may exit the bottom of the top hat before the spring is fully extended which removes the safety from this, but for most street cars people do it this way sometimes. As long as the shaft is in the top hat and bottom of shock is bolted in, there is no way for the spring to pop out and come flying at you.
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