F20FTW

i'm in the process of gathering parts for my rebuild and after searching for a few sites for rod and main bearings. it states:

Part no. Description Required Quantity
13211-PCX-003 BEARING A, CONNECTING ROD (BLUE) (DAIDO) 8
13212-PCX-003 BEARING B, CONNECTING ROD (BLACK) (DAIDO) 8
13213-PCX-013 BEARING C, CONNECTING ROD (BROWN) (DAIDO) 8
13214-PCX-003 BEARING D, CONNECTING ROD (GREEN) (DAIDO) 8
13214-PCX-013 BEARING D, CONNECTING ROD (GREEN) (DAIDO) 8
13215-PCX-013 BEARING E, CONNECTING ROD (YELLOW) (DAIDO) 8
13216-PCX-013 BEARING F, CONNECTING ROD (PINK) (DAIDO) 8
13217-PCX-003 BEARING G, CONNECTING ROD (RED) (DAIDO) 8

13321-PCX-003 BEARING A, MAIN (BLUE) (DAIDO) 10
13322-PCX-013 BEARING B, MAIN (BLACK) (DAIDO) 10
13323-PCX-003 BEARING C, MAIN (BROWN) (DAIDO) 10
13323-PCX-013 BEARING C, MAIN (BROWN) (DAIDO) 10
13324-PCX-003 BEARING D, MAIN (GREEN) (DAIDO) 10
13324-PCX-013 BEARING D, MAIN (GREEN) (DAIDO) 10
13325-PCX-013 BEARING E, MAIN (YELLOW) (DAIDO) 10
13326-PCX-013 BEARING F, MAIN (PINK) (DAIDO) 10

so if i am to purchase complete bearings am i supposed to get 8pcs of rod bearing a,b,c,d(2 d's???),e,f,or g and 10 pcs of main bearing a,b,c,c,d,d,e,f,? or should it be a pair of each letter??? i'm confused. and why are some bearings listed twice??? please help. what are the ones needed for a rebuild? does it matter if i am going turbo???

any help is appreciated
TIA

Stratocaster

Before you get to this point, of bearing size selection, you will need the markings on the rod ends, crank and block. That info with the service manual will help you id the bearing you need to purchase. The -013 parts replaced the -003 parts. Only one is current and active. So forget that duplication. Each part number is a bearing 1/2. You will need two to make a set. 4 sets of rod bearing, 5 sets of main bearing and a set of thrust washers.

Billman250

The factory service manual has a selection chart/graph.

As stratocaster says, you'll need the markings, and the book.

Basically it says (this is EXAMPLE....dont go by it) if your block has letter C, your crank has letter A, the two will come together on the chart and tell you which bearing is correct (say green for example)

EVEN THIS is not the exact bearing, but is your best starting point and most likely the bearing you will need. 80% of the time it has been in my experience. once you select the colored bearing, install it and measure the clearance with plastic gauge.

If it is too tight or too loose, you will move to the next color bearing.

BUT TO START...get the helms repair manual. IT IS THE ONLY WAY to do this right. It has the block, crank, rod markings, where to find them, what the mean, the reference chart for the markings, etc.

IF YOU look closely, you will see the original color markings on the bearings. these are also good starting points.

durtysocks

heh, i love how all the questions i have seem to pop up right as im ready for them!

F20FTW

thanks alot guys. i didnt realize it was that complicated. my follow up question is would going for acl bearings be better than oem? i will be going turbo after this rebuild. and their website hae no color-coding bearing matching thing to worry about.

many thanks again for the tips

Stratocaster

OEM fitment on the motor is tighter then most. That is why Honda had a number of bearing sizes to work with to get the clearance right. ACL on the other hand, makes only one size of bearing. if you don't want to worry about oil clearances, just order whatever color you like the best. They are as likely to fit as the ACL bearings.

Actually if you plan to pour your money into your car, you might want to build the motor for boost, instead of an NA motor you are going to boost.