Hfreak

I would also have a look at the mating portion of the wheel, where it touches the rotor. There will sometimes be a buildup of oxidation from the dissimilar metals, check the rotors as well. My local shop cleans both mating areas as a precaution when they remove any wheel. Good luck.

Chuck S

$11? They're less than 6 bucks a nut new. From the right dealer. Admittedly seems expensive for 20 of 'em.

-- Chuck

Lawrenceh

Yes but it was not me but the previous owner. The car has 50k but I don't know how many miles and how long these has been on. I will have a close look at the seat! Thank you!

Lawrenceh

The wheels are in good shape but has gone through ages so let me clean it up. Thanks!

Lawrenceh

I am not kidding but here in NNJ it's 10 bucks for each, which is killing me.

windhund116

You may want to think about replacing the lug bolt studs. May have stretched them ---> improper tightening.

Just a thought...

VTEC4-2

This has happened to me as well, and the parts were the correct seat. I've learned to re-torque after a short trip and then again after a week.

Amount of preload you get at a particular torque can be largely influenced by the amount of corrosion and lubrication. Be sure the threads of both the nut and stud are clean and dry.

BlueTeg

How old is your torque wrench?
If it is getting up there in age, and has never been recalibrated, you may not actually be achieving the indicated torque on the fastener. I had the same problem with a race car I had, my teammate and I would usually use his torque wrench to set and recheck torque before going out on track. We switched torque wrenches and the problem stopped immediately.

Do you set it back to its lowest numerical setting, and not any lower, when you store it?
If you a digital tq wrench (like Snap On), skip this. If not, and you have the type that requires you to twist the handle until you reach the desired tq setting you should always set the wrench back to lowest indicated setting when storing the wrench. For example, if the lowest indicated value is 10 ft/lbs, set it and leave it at that. Do not keep twisting until it bottoms out, well below that lowest indicated value. That will prematurely wear the internals and give inaccurate readings.

Have the wheels been powder coated or repainted?
I've also seen paint/coating in the nut seats cause the nuts to come loose after just a few miles of driving.

BlueTeg

Highly unlikely they've been stretched if he only torqued them once to 82 ft/lbs.

Billman250

I think you may have had a buildup on the hubcentric part of the mounting surface (the hub itself). This results in the wheel not sitting flush. Driving the car works the wheel past the buildup, and torque comes off the studs. Then you re-torque, and all seems good.

In addition to above comments, I recommend removing all 4 wheels. If any wheels are STUCK to the car after lug removal, this means the hubcentric part needs to be cleaned, as well as the hubcentric holes in the wheels (Not the lug holes). Check for rust, or a white salt-like buildup.

As far as stretched studs, if you can turn the lugs easy by hand all the way until the wheel is flush, your studs are not stretched.