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Notchy gear chanes after refurbished clutch master and slave cylinder

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Old 07-25-2016, 05:17 AM
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No, most likely air in the lines because he didn't bleed it right.

If you can get under the car safely you can do this yourself. It's a bit of a tight fit but there's two 12mm bolts holding the slave on, and the bleeder is an 8 or 7 mm, don't recall which exactly. Unbolt the slave, put a little 1/4" fuel hose on the bleeder nipple, point it at the sky, and open it for about 20 seconds, then close it. Put it all back together, and give the banjo bolt that goes from the line to the slave a tug to make sure it's tight. Top off your reservoir and enjoy smoother shifting.

The first gear thud is normal, most manual Hondas have that 'feature' and the transmission is a little notchy, but if it was any less notchy you'd have trouble finding the right gear.
Old 07-27-2016, 12:57 AM
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Haha tomorrow its booked into the mechanic who did it bleeding free of charge. Gravity bleed is the way to go from what I gathered?

And someone also posted that the clutch master or slave culylinder must rotate upwards to get all the air out?

Again, thankyou
Old 07-27-2016, 03:20 AM
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The bleeder points straight up.
Old 08-10-2016, 05:44 PM
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Got the cluth rebled, as soon as I got it back it was EXTREMELY SMOOTH getting in every gear including reverse... After a day of having the car back though, the gear changes became shit house by the end of the day. Peridoically I get very smooth shifts for like 2 minutes after driving for a while but then it goes to shit again. When i depress the clutch halfway and try to change gears (knowingly changing gears half engaged) the notchiness is the exact notchiness I feel at full depression. The clutch doesnt disengage properly i reckon.

Heading to a new shop for new parts in a weeks time
Old 08-11-2016, 05:49 AM
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There must be a leak somewhere. I know often times when people unbolt the slave from the car to point the bleeder straight up they can accidentally loosen the banjo bolt from the main line. At least I have, so I always give a tug to main line banjo bolt to make sure it's tight. Because it causes the same symptoms you're describing.
Old 08-11-2016, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
There must be a leak somewhere. I know often times when people unbolt the slave from the car to point the bleeder straight up they can accidentally loosen the banjo bolt from the main line. At least I have, so I always give a tug to main line banjo bolt to make sure it's tight. Because it causes the same symptoms you're describing.
Leak was my first thought too. But another possibility, the clutch disk is not lubed properly, so sometimes it hangs up and drags when you try to release clutch.

I'm thinking there was serious air in the lines, and bleeding made it better. But the clutch disk was always dragging sometimes, and still is. Its just that its somewhat intermittent, in that sometimes clutch disk hangs, sometimes it manages to slide enough to make shifting smooth.

Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Old 08-17-2016, 11:46 PM
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Thanks for all the replies: UPDATE

Took the car into s2000 specialist - he stated that there is nothing wrong with the gearbox or clutch master and slave - he said the notchiness I feel is normal for all s2000 due to their short shifter. Nature of the beast sorta idea.

2 shops so far have stated that new gearbox oil is a good idea as it most likely old (despite me telling them it was only put in 30,000km ago 3 years old). S2k specialist said it could help but either way nothing wrong with it and its normal. the funniest thing is on sharp long turns, driving fast through corners, or remaining on hills for a period of time the gear shifts smoothen out very nicely. To me this suggest oil slushing around lubricating (im probably wrong lol)

Personnally i know my car inside and out, while yes notchy gear shifts may be normal for some s2ks, it certainly isnt for mine. While yes it may not be a problem, I just prefer smooth. Im gna bite the bullet and say there isnt something wrong - although I intend on improving this on my own behalf to be back to normal.

Starting with gear box oil, then clutch pedal adjustment for a closer clutch engagement to my foot rather than firewall. To my understanding, if done correctly, these 2 things can and will help (most likely).

Will update
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