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#11
Running a dirt cheap nitrous rig and going larger and larger without tests and safeguards is sorts like running a turbo with no controls.
No sizing of the turbo to the application...no wastegate...who knows what you'll get..no intecooler...no spark retard and/ or compression changes..hope the fueling is okay..lubrication? cool down? etc, etc. But you can't put a turbo onto just any car for a few hundred bucks. And all turbo kits come with at least some safeguards. Not nitrous. I think that is an error in how the stuff is sold and marketed and installed.
BTW you can run a larger system if you go progressive and do it right. That way at lower RPMs the nitrous supply is reduced and increased with RPMs and cut before redline.
If you run the proper safeguards and tune the car it'll be fine but it won't be a $400 out the door deal.
Stan
No sizing of the turbo to the application...no wastegate...who knows what you'll get..no intecooler...no spark retard and/ or compression changes..hope the fueling is okay..lubrication? cool down? etc, etc. But you can't put a turbo onto just any car for a few hundred bucks. And all turbo kits come with at least some safeguards. Not nitrous. I think that is an error in how the stuff is sold and marketed and installed.
BTW you can run a larger system if you go progressive and do it right. That way at lower RPMs the nitrous supply is reduced and increased with RPMs and cut before redline.
If you run the proper safeguards and tune the car it'll be fine but it won't be a $400 out the door deal.
Stan
#12
*Basic wet kit...$450
*safty pressure switch....$35
*bottle heater....$120 to $180
*Pressure gauge .....$25 to $50
*new plugs .............$10
*Rev limiter (engage and disengage) ....$65
rpm window switch (progressive).....$150 to $200
Remote bottle opener.....$200
*filled tank .....$40
Misc. switches ,wires, fuses....$40
* denotes things that are needed unless your retarded. Window switch would help but not needed.
By the way throw away the wide open throttle switch they give ya a moment button is better. If ya keep the wide open throttle switch....then get a window rpm switch aka progressive style.
Deals can be had on ebay and used from others....i got a heater a remote bottle opener and a remote Nitrous guage
for around 200 total. But I'd only buy a new kit.....I got mine for 465 shipped to my door brand new off ebay
*safty pressure switch....$35
*bottle heater....$120 to $180
*Pressure gauge .....$25 to $50
*new plugs .............$10
*Rev limiter (engage and disengage) ....$65
rpm window switch (progressive).....$150 to $200
Remote bottle opener.....$200
*filled tank .....$40
Misc. switches ,wires, fuses....$40
* denotes things that are needed unless your retarded. Window switch would help but not needed.
By the way throw away the wide open throttle switch they give ya a moment button is better. If ya keep the wide open throttle switch....then get a window rpm switch aka progressive style.
Deals can be had on ebay and used from others....i got a heater a remote bottle opener and a remote Nitrous guage
for around 200 total. But I'd only buy a new kit.....I got mine for 465 shipped to my door brand new off ebay
#13
THANKS FOR THE HELP. Although I'm a little nervous about using the 75 shot w/o retarding the timing, everyone including ZEX is saying that it is a must. What about a fuel pump, how long do you use the juice, 10-15sec? Does using colder plugs affect the car's performance durring N/A driving? Why is No2 more of a concern regarding heat than turbocharging?
75 is fine...It is a wet shot...not dry.......Colder plugs is a must but regular plugs can be used if ya spray in short spurts........Just checked my plugs tonight all looks good....even the tempermental #4 plug.
If your only getting 25 out of a 55 shot i would say your not spraying liquid but gas......Raise the bottle pressure anything under 750 psi and ya got gas ...ya want liquid.
75 and below no retarding needed...but if ya spray 75 ya can't be a moron and spray for 20 seconds....Just short bursts when ya need them.
Check the may issue of sprot compact car....it has a ten page article on Nitrous sorta a 101 intro.
75 is fine...It is a wet shot...not dry.......Colder plugs is a must but regular plugs can be used if ya spray in short spurts........Just checked my plugs tonight all looks good....even the tempermental #4 plug.
If your only getting 25 out of a 55 shot i would say your not spraying liquid but gas......Raise the bottle pressure anything under 750 psi and ya got gas ...ya want liquid.
75 and below no retarding needed...but if ya spray 75 ya can't be a moron and spray for 20 seconds....Just short bursts when ya need them.
Check the may issue of sprot compact car....it has a ten page article on Nitrous sorta a 101 intro.
#14
Colder plugs will not hurt the car performance. Turbo's Just like Nitrous have to watch for detonation. Detonation is a novel with-in its self. Lots of factors. I.M.H.O Zex is retarded. The stock fuel pump has more then enough pressure to supply the engine injectors and the fuel Nozzel for nitrous ...(shark nozzel type setup). Do what your comfortable with. I actually spray through one or two gears....... Usually through third and part of fourth......Sometimes I do a first gear spray but wheel spin and clutch slippage can be a problem. Usually no more than 8 to ten seconds....most are more like 5 seconds. 99% of the time a 5 second shot in the correct gear will be all ya need for street kills. S2000 can hang well with most cars.
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