Noise when going forward or reverse
#1
Noise when going forward or reverse
When ever I try and go forward from a standstill or reverse I get this noise that is similar to a ping pong ball hitting a ping pong table. Its just a slight pop sound coming from the rear, and sometimes it sounds like it comes from the rear passenger, and sometimes the rear driver side. Is this the noise it makes when the hubs need to be tightened? If so what is the best way to tighten them? I have read somewere that you need to take the wheel off and somewhere that you dont.
What is the easiest way to tighten the rear hubs? I have a 36mm socket already and a torque wrench. Is there anything else needed?
Thanks
What is the easiest way to tighten the rear hubs? I have a 36mm socket already and a torque wrench. Is there anything else needed?
Thanks
#2
Moderator
Axle nuts not tight enough from factory. Covers all s2ks, 2000-2009. Even if you have no issues, all s2ks should have the "axle nut tsb" performed. Cars that have not had it done are almost certain to develop shifting hubs, then worn hubs, then destroyed bearings.
First off, DO NOT buy new nuts...you'll see why soon.
The nut has a bent over part called a stake. The staked part of the nut is bent into a slot on the axle. This is a safety so the nut cant come loose. Using a hammer and special shaped chisel, or other hard tool, un-stake the nut.
Remove the nut, and grease the face of the nut (NOT the threads) with a thin coat of wheel bearing grease. (note: the nut MUST be greased or the torque setting is useless)
Re-install the nut, and torque it to 220.
On ORIGINAL NUT AND TORQUE, IF DONE CORRECTLY, the staked part of the nut will have moved from 12 oclock to 2 oclock. On older cars, it can even go to 3 oclock.
Re-stake the nut in its new position with a hammer and dull chisel.
First off, DO NOT buy new nuts...you'll see why soon.
The nut has a bent over part called a stake. The staked part of the nut is bent into a slot on the axle. This is a safety so the nut cant come loose. Using a hammer and special shaped chisel, or other hard tool, un-stake the nut.
Remove the nut, and grease the face of the nut (NOT the threads) with a thin coat of wheel bearing grease. (note: the nut MUST be greased or the torque setting is useless)
Re-install the nut, and torque it to 220.
On ORIGINAL NUT AND TORQUE, IF DONE CORRECTLY, the staked part of the nut will have moved from 12 oclock to 2 oclock. On older cars, it can even go to 3 oclock.
Re-stake the nut in its new position with a hammer and dull chisel.
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Higgi (11-02-2021)
#3
Ok, I took the center cap off and I noticed the nut is already in the 2 o'clock position. Does this mean Im going to need to get a new hub? Or by any chance would taking it off and regreasing it fix it? I need to go out and get a different torque wrench soon.
But I was reading a post you had before about it Billman and it seems like im still in the stage 1? I only hear the noise taking off, there is no other noise while driving.
But I was reading a post you had before about it Billman and it seems like im still in the stage 1? I only hear the noise taking off, there is no other noise while driving.
#5
Moderator
Seasniper you can see 2 stake marks? Dont forget the wheel turns and the clock position can be anywhere
This job should be done with the car on the ground, e brake on. You dont even need to pull the rear wheels. Just pop the centercap and work through the hole.
you need the weight of the car on the wheels to tighten the nut anyway.
This job should be done with the car on the ground, e brake on. You dont even need to pull the rear wheels. Just pop the centercap and work through the hole.
you need the weight of the car on the wheels to tighten the nut anyway.
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Willie Gee
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