S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

No Vtec?

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Old 07-10-2006, 04:45 AM
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You sure they didn't try and remove the gauge cluster and damage the wiring? It would be VERY difficult to spot because of the location.
Old 07-10-2006, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Ztopgun28,Jul 9 2006, 10:46 PM
but can vtec become weaker over time (assuming im not low on oil) from a bad solonoid? Or when the solonoid wears out, the vtec wouldnt kick in at all? I guess Im asking can vtec be stronger if I replaced the solonoid now since its not expensive anyways? Afterall, I do have an AP1, first year it came out. So maybe my solonoid could be better?
lol, you're my favorite poster, because you're like a hypochondriac about your S2000.

No, most vtec solenoids will outlast the entire car. Remember, his was STOLEN and then recovered, so God knows WHAT they did to it. That's probably why it broke.

And no, vtec doesn't get "weaker" over time because of a solenoid or any other single part. Replacing your perfectly good working solenoid won't do anything except lighten your wallet.
Old 07-10-2006, 11:27 AM
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You really cant tell what is done to a stolen car. Sidewinder : You also said that they took off all the electrical connections (under hood?). There is a pretty good chance the issue is within the wiring.
Old 07-10-2006, 12:09 PM
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My best guess would be that there is something wrong with the water temp sensor/indicator circuit, and that is causing the warmup rev limiter to stay engaged.

Maybe low oil pressure due to broken solenoid is causing ECU to limit rpm? V-tech solenoid is in the engine's pressurized lube oil system. If this part is broken it COULD drastically lower the oil pressure available to the bearings in your engine. I would CLOSELY monitor oil pressure until you find and fix this problem by first replacing solenoid .

I wonder if the ECU can tell (by O2 sensor reading) that the Vtech system is out of comission, that the fat cams aren't engaging, and it is therefore limiting rpm to below V-tech engagement point?

Who knows? Without even knowing if your idiot lights work, you are flying blind. You need to positively check for CELs, You need a scanner tool (or a dealer's) to get any codes tripped in the ECU.

That is the first thing I would do. Print out any that are in memory. Reset ECU. See if any new ones pop up when you start it back up. OBDII ECU's have some pretty nice diagnostics that I would definitely take advantage of in your situation.

Old 07-10-2006, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by s2kBryan916,Jul 10 2006, 02:27 PM
You really cant tell what is done to a stolen car. Sidewinder : You also said that they took off all the electrical connections (under hood?). There is a pretty good chance the issue is within the wiring.
Nothing on the motor was touched (except the VTEC solenoid harness...it was unplugged (the plastic housing has a crack in it, but plugs in fine)). Everything that was unplugged was on the interior of the car which is where most of the damage took place.
Old 07-11-2006, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by snakeeater,Jul 10 2006, 02:09 PM
My best guess would be that there is something wrong with the water temp sensor/indicator circuit, and that is causing the warmup rev limiter to stay engaged.

Maybe low oil pressure due to broken solenoid is causing ECU to limit rpm? V-tech solenoid is in the engine's pressurized lube oil system. If this part is broken it COULD drastically lower the oil pressure available to the bearings in your engine. I would CLOSELY monitor oil pressure until you find and fix this problem by first replacing solenoid .

I wonder if the ECU can tell (by O2 sensor reading) that the Vtech system is out of comission, that the fat cams aren't engaging, and it is therefore limiting rpm to below V-tech engagement point?

Who knows? Without even knowing if your idiot lights work, you are flying blind. You need to positively check for CELs, You need a scanner tool (or a dealer's) to get any codes tripped in the ECU.

That is the first thing I would do. Print out any that are in memory. Reset ECU. See if any new ones pop up when you start it back up. OBDII ECU's have some pretty nice diagnostics that I would definitely take advantage of in your situation.
Yes the ECU knows the switch is broken, and if his instrumentation was working, he'd have a CEL. This is also why there is a premature rev limiter. The ECU has forced the car into a "limp" mode.
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