chris_barry

Some Oil filters have a one way valve in them. If you swapped the lines to your remote filter around this valve would stop the flow. Likewise, if the filter you took off had no valve, and the new one did then depending on which way your lines were oriented this could also stop the flow.

remove the filter and crank the engine over ( with a container below the remote oil filter housing)

ahrmike

Crap, really? I threw on a KN on my car recently because I havent had the time to purchase OEM from majestic. Now you're scaring me...

S2KO'd

Well a Purolator filter didnt change things. I didnt see much sense in spending the $ on a performance filter expecting any difference. The oil filter relocation lines have NOT been disconnected and oil pressure was never an issue prior to this. After the turbo and everything involved it has run on nothing but the OEM Honda replacement filter, the filter involved with the change was a K&N.

I hope youre right Car Analogy, Ill try cranking with no spark and see whats happening at the filter mount. I hope it makes a giant mess, Ill take cleaning oil up from everywhere over tearing this motor apart. I know what kind of oil pressure any internal combustion engine makes, nevermind the F20, and what is to be expected. This is about beyond me to figure out whats going on in there and I have a good friend that just so happens to be a great machinist but even he will tell me to dig deep. These motors arent cheap.

AusS2000

I've used K&N HN1004s on my car for the last decade without a problem.

I've used so many I know the part no. off by heart.

Utah S2K

Interesting issue. I am thinking oil drain back valve at this point. The OEM PCX filter has a fairly strong spring on the check valve as does the HN1004. Which exact K&N filter did you try? Which Purolater? If the drain back valve is opening (or not on the filter you are using), due to filter orientation or filter type, your oil filter may not be primed. Do you fill your filters prior to installing? The best website on the web for lubrication issues is www.bobistheoilguy.com/ (seriously). It is to automotive lubrication what this site is to the S2000. If you have all the various filters in question and a pic of your remote filter orientation the guys over there can get you pointed in the right direction. Again the PCX has a notoriouly strong bypass valve and a bypass valve. To get a better idea of these feature check the FAQ Maintenace sticky in Under The Hood --Honda OEM oil filter summary......
Utah

apme123

is the camwheel bolt nice and tight

zeroptzero

^ This ia a good suggestion to check as it affects oil flow.

starchland

make sure your old gasket is removed and all mating surfaces are clean. It may be pulling air into the system...

EDIT: also, I would be skeptical of cranking your motor if your unsure there is oil pressure...maybe by hand although can anyone verify this will circulate oil? Also, is it possible the oil pressure sensor got hit or disconnected...

SpitfireS

So.. are you still using the same filter?
IOW: you have not changed it or taken it off (yet)?

If the inner filter material support has collapsed, the filter material could block the outlet almost completely, like a cotton plug (I guess)
(if you have a gf ask her, she will explain.. )
I doubt it's the bypass: if it is stuck closed you still have flow through the filter, allthough I don't know how much cold oil will flow through it.
That's also why its there: to protect the filter material when the oil is cold.
The oil pump is strong enough to puncture the filter material with cold thick oil, I think.
If the bypass is stuck open you should have flow.

Or the bypass in the pump is stuck open, all oil flows back into the sump straight away.

I would not run the engine for any longer than a couple of seconds at all before the pressure is back.
And, even if you do that without oil flow, the oil that stayed behind is not that much.
You could pour some oil on the valve train to be safe®.

S2KO'd

I am certain it is not the filter, the K&N as well as the Purolator (classic btw) were both new out of the box filters, filled with oil before being installed. The K&N showed no visible defects after being removed. Obviously something internal has failed and its one hell of a coincidence that it happened right at an oil change. Again, there were no issues with oil pressure prior to this oil change.

Starchland, if you read any previous posts you will find that I have already attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Its definitely not a sensor fault. I also doubt turning the crankshaft by hand will produce any amount of pressure.

Also the motor has less than 3 minutes (at the most) of accumulated run time since this issue between the number of times it has been started. The AEM EMS has a tendency of idling rather high at the initial crank for a second or two but there has not been any strange noises, I would have heard valvetrain right away. Apparently oil is circulating, but at a slow rate and no pressure to it. I am considering tearing it down to check on the remote filter mount but man, thats rather involved given the turbo has to come out to get total clearance to the filter mount. Ill be trying various things this weekend to identify the problem.

Again I appreciate everyones input and suggestions, I had a feeling asking you guys would produce some results, thank you very much. I will post what I find, it wouldnt surprise me to be a one of a kind event knowing my kind of luck and all.