Newbie here... Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only way to ADD HP to the S2K is to
#51
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Just add NOS, but set it to trickle instead of blast a'la Fast n' Foorious (aka Dense n' Delerioius!).
Set it to like 5psi, and then you basically get a turbo/super that you can turn on and off!
For more power for real, I'd go with a new vtec controller (come on lower) and more aggressive cams overall.
Of course, I don't know what the hell I'm talking about ...
Set it to like 5psi, and then you basically get a turbo/super that you can turn on and off!
For more power for real, I'd go with a new vtec controller (come on lower) and more aggressive cams overall.
Of course, I don't know what the hell I'm talking about ...
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[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by CMiS2K
As I will state once again, THERE IS RISKS INVOLVED WITH FORCED INDUCTION on a 2.0L, 9K REDLINE, MOTOR that is ALREADY PUSHING ALMOST 90% OF ITs CAPABILITY in NA form.
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I'm curious about your quote as to this engine pushing 90% of its capability. Where did this info come from?
As I will state once again, THERE IS RISKS INVOLVED WITH FORCED INDUCTION on a 2.0L, 9K REDLINE, MOTOR that is ALREADY PUSHING ALMOST 90% OF ITs CAPABILITY in NA form.
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I'm curious about your quote as to this engine pushing 90% of its capability. Where did this info come from?
#56
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Considering most people are struggling to squeze out an additiona 20 hp in NA form. THat is where that came from. THE VERY BEST I/H/E combined doesn't give this car 20 HP add a VAFC and some have been able to get 217 whp. That is why I say that.
#57
I'm afraid that an additional 20 hp in NA form might be about all she's going to go. While the "Road and Track" mag tech writers answered my FI advisability questions in their 4/03 issue and didn't mention blown engines, whey sure warned of blown drivetrains. One cheap and quick 8 dyno measured hp fix is xvipers "Radmat" to insulate hot air from the radiator from the air intake ($20 bucks or less, you make it yourself). Then it seems everyone is experimenting with CAI systems which so far seem to help throttle response but don't add much when measured on the dyno (as the car isn't moving, air isn't flowing that much). Many seem to agree that the stock air induction sucks (or more correctly doesn't suck enough), but I can't find any agreement on a NA fix. Though I may be heresay, I'd advise that if you don't like the way the can drives in stock form (or perhaps with minimal tweeks), shop further.
Thanks,
Richard
Thanks,
Richard
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Yep, it seems like I may go with that RX7. I drove one the other day and, although not a fair comparison because the RX7 is FI, but it really is an amazing experience. The tach seems limitless and the power was incredible. I'm not scared of the rotary...so i think that's gonna be my ride by next week.
I would love to have a blown S2000, but the HP comes far cheaper with the RX7 and it's just as light. I expect maintenance will be a bit more but the drivetrain on the S2000 scares me a little.
I would love to have a blown S2000, but the HP comes far cheaper with the RX7 and it's just as light. I expect maintenance will be a bit more but the drivetrain on the S2000 scares me a little.
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sounds like you made a good choice based on needs. That sounds like what you are really looking for, a car that will fit your needs all around. Going with a car that is already FI is probably safer due to the parts availability, plus the RX7 3rd gen was produced 11 years ago. So there is 11 years of R&D already there for you and now at a lesser cost.
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CMiS2K: Thanks for the response. I didn't mean for it to sound like I was flaming. I merely wanted to know what you meant. At any rate, your assessment seems fair and reasonable to me.
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