New Starter Apparently Dead in 2 Months
12-11-2015, 12:29 PM
#1
New Starter Apparently Dead in 2 Months
I replaced my starter with a rebuilt one 2 months ago. The battery is good, and the starter seemed fine until now. I get the solenoid click noise, and the car will push start just fine. I got it home, stopped the engine, and then it started right up once. Second time, dead as before with the solenoid click.
Does everyone buy rebuilt starters, or is a brand new $$$ starter recommended? I really don't want to go through that process again, but if I have to, I want it to be the last time on this car!
Does everyone buy rebuilt starters, or is a brand new $$$ starter recommended? I really don't want to go through that process again, but if I have to, I want it to be the last time on this car!
12-11-2015, 03:06 PM
#3
Maybe, test that battery. It may not be good. You may have a parasitic draw that is draining the battery of reserve starting current.
12-11-2015, 03:49 PM
#4
Current draw test from the starter, and voltage drop test would tell you know if the starter is ok or not, but I'd check the starter relay first.
12-12-2015, 05:34 AM
#5
Is there a separate starter relay on the S2000, or is it simply the relay in the engine compartment fuse box? I assume you are not talking about the solenoid.
12-12-2015, 05:58 AM
#6
How was the battery tested? You can't just assume your battery is charged because you put a volt meter and get 12.6 volts, that could be nothing but a surface charge(only true way to test a battery is to load test it(that means putting a 50 amp load for 15 seconds, waiting a few minutes then hit it with a load at half the cold cranking amps, voltage should not drop below 9.6v)). To test the current draw from the starter you need an inductive ammeter, but you can also test for voltage drop across the battery cable. You test by hooking up the positive lead to the positive terminal and the negative lead on the positive cable going to the starter. You disconnect the fuel injectors, or cam sensors, then crank the car. You should see less than .5 volts while cranking. More than that and you have high resistance going to your starter motor.
Yes there is a relay that sends current to the solenoid. In the under the dash fuse box there's three black box thingies at the bottom, those are relays, the starter cut relay is the one in the middle. Check that out, if the contacts are burned or corroded it could be the cheap answer to your problems.
Yes there is a relay that sends current to the solenoid. In the under the dash fuse box there's three black box thingies at the bottom, those are relays, the starter cut relay is the one in the middle. Check that out, if the contacts are burned or corroded it could be the cheap answer to your problems.
12-12-2015, 06:17 AM
#7
How was the battery tested? You can't just assume your battery is charged because you put a volt meter and get 12.6 volts, that could be nothing but a surface charge(only true way to test a battery is to load test it(that means putting a 50 amp load for 15 seconds, waiting a few minutes then hit it with a load at half the cold cranking amps, voltage should not drop below 9.6v)). To test the current draw from the starter you need an inductive ammeter, but you can also test for voltage drop across the battery cable. You test by hooking up the positive lead to the positive terminal and the negative lead on the positive cable going to the starter. You disconnect the fuel injectors, or cam sensors, then crank the car. You should see less than .5 volts while cranking. More than that and you have high resistance going to your starter motor.
Yes there is a relay that sends current to the solenoid. Under the dash fuse box there's black box thingies, those are relays, the starter cut relay is the one in the middle. Check that out, if the contacts are burned or corroded it could be the cheap answer to your problems.
Yes there is a relay that sends current to the solenoid. Under the dash fuse box there's black box thingies, those are relays, the starter cut relay is the one in the middle. Check that out, if the contacts are burned or corroded it could be the cheap answer to your problems.
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12-12-2015, 06:21 AM
#8
Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1449932339' post='23826115
How was the battery tested? You can't just assume your battery is charged because you put a volt meter and get 12.6 volts, that could be nothing but a surface charge(only true way to test a battery is to load test it(that means putting a 50 amp load for 15 seconds, waiting a few minutes then hit it with a load at half the cold cranking amps, voltage should not drop below 9.6v)). To test the current draw from the starter you need an inductive ammeter, but you can also test for voltage drop across the battery cable. You test by hooking up the positive lead to the positive terminal and the negative lead on the positive cable going to the starter. You disconnect the fuel injectors, or cam sensors, then crank the car. You should see less than .5 volts while cranking. More than that and you have high resistance going to your starter motor.
Yes there is a relay that sends current to the solenoid. Under the dash fuse box there's black box thingies, those are relays, the starter cut relay is the one in the middle. Check that out, if the contacts are burned or corroded it could be the cheap answer to your problems.
Yes there is a relay that sends current to the solenoid. Under the dash fuse box there's black box thingies, those are relays, the starter cut relay is the one in the middle. Check that out, if the contacts are burned or corroded it could be the cheap answer to your problems.
12-12-2015, 11:01 AM
#9
When I only heard the solenoid click the issue was the cable B was disconnected in this case. I had just replaced my clutch. But as other have said check the starter relay!
12-13-2015, 01:27 PM
#10
To test the current draw from the starter you need an inductive ammeter, but you can also test for voltage drop across the battery cable. You test by hooking up the positive lead to the positive terminal and the negative lead on the positive cable going to the starter. You disconnect the fuel injectors, or cam sensors, then crank the car. You should see less than .5 volts while cranking. More than that and you have high resistance going to your starter motor.
If I push start the car then shut it off, it will normally start using the starter at least once. I'm curious if I would see more appropriate voltage drop if I can get the starter to crank again.