wadzii

In NC even if you sign the bill of sale and no warranty stuff you can still return the car in a certain period of time and get your money back if there is a major mechanical failure.

AP1Driver

This noise is almost definitely top end related. It's loudest under the VC. I'm gonna run it by a local machinist/engine builder here and have them take a listen and I'll report back Bill. If it seems I'm trying to rush you, I'm not, I'm just anxious and upset is all. Sorry if I come off as pushy, totally unintended. I'm also gonna change the oil and pull the VTEC solenoid and look for metal. It sounds more like a collapsed rocker arm or lifter (don't think this car has lifters) than anything else. I was thinking loose wrist pin, but that would've destroyed a cylinder wall and allowed oil past the rings, and there is no smoke at all or oil usage, and it has excellent oil pressure at idle and steady cruise rpm. I pulled the plugs and they're all clean and showing a stoich mixture, no oil. I'll report back this evening after I get it to the guys at the machine shop. Our Honda guys don't see F20s here so that's a waste of time having them diagnose anything

Billman250

There are no lifters.

Check motion springs, I told you how many days ago it was the first reply.

If you want to make headway, just follow my post exactly. My replies are not random guesses, there are extreme probabilities in your case. The random on-off of your noise is very characteristic of missing motion springs. The next thing to make that exact noise it the BELT tensioner (Not to be confused with the CHAIN tensioner/TCT). Run it without the belt for 15 seconds to rule out the BELT tensioner.

Billman250

MM3Kwolik

X2

I definitely agree with Bill, with multiple F20C rebuilds under my belt as well I'd say the motion springs are a high probability since it seems to be running fine and is slightly intermittent.

Another thought I had, and maybe Bill can chime in on whether or not this would be a possibility would be a cracked roller. Every once in a while when the roller is in just the right position it may cause more of a "knock". It should be really easy to identify one that is cracked if that is the issue.

Good luck!

Billman250

I guess it could be a cracked roller, but I have yet to see one in over 1100 cars.

wadzii

Here's a busted roller. out of all the things I have broken this is the only broken roller I've ever seen on an s2k. I have however seen a number of busted rollers on k-series engines.

I also ran into a car a few months ago that was missing the "cap" on the LMA Spring.. it had a bit of a loud clacking coming from the valve train

Billman250

Another issue that you may have is spring-to-retainer compatibility. Especially if the noise is random, and not consistent.

If it were MY car, I'd get rid of the aftermarket crap and go OEM. The reliability of the oem AP2 parts is unbeatable.

s2k manic

I cant imagine leaving a motion spring or piston out. have question for you billman I have done 4 sets of retainers none cracked so far but the last one. the keepers were really in there had to resort to smacking the retainer at an angle with a brass punch so I could get them to release.usually a tap with a socket to dislodge them and then I use the spring compressor and they come right out.is this the beginning of cracked retainers will put em under a microscope to see if I missed some just curios sense you've done so many thanks hope you can help this guy I try to help the folks in my area was Honda bike tech for 15 years a lot of stuff is the same

AP1Driver

SO, we have a HUGE issue other than the engine problem. This car has FRAME DAMAGE BEYOND REPAIR, CAN'T EVEN GET CLOSE TO ALIGNMENT SPECS!! I knew the car had a reconstructed title due to an accident, but was ASSURED that it was restored to certified condition by Honda. Paperwork included. It pulled a little to the right but I figured an alignment would resolve that. Now I know why they wouldn't let me lift it and rushed the deal. I go to get it pre-inspected and aligned here (they have no inspection law in OH) and it FAILS due to frame damage. Unrepairable according to two local inspection shops and the state DOT. They said I have an absolute win lawsuit due to the fact that they are NOT allowed to sell a non-roadworthy car to ANY state that has an inspection law UNLESS the sale states PARTS SALVAGE ONLY . This car was licensed and tagged by them as a no-problem car after repair. The attorney general is going to FRY them here if they don't reverse the deal entirely. They said this is the highest order of consumer fraud. They are liable for a FULL refund and return or they'll pay dearly in court. Open/shut case. I learned a HUGE lesson here. I'm going to pick up a clean, one owner AP2 tomorrow as I CAN'T DRIVE A CAR I PAID 15K FOR!!!! The only reason I paid that is because of all the expensive aftermarket parts that I wouldn't have to buy myself. What a bunch of pieces of SHIT, this dealership (I'll mention the name soon). I can't believe this happened. I'm still in shock. I'm going to offer them a slight favor: I'm going to tell them I'll accept 7,500 dollars and they allow me to keep the car for parts, and then switch the turbo kit (which was recently installed and is still almost new), carbon hood, lip, wheels and stereo to the mint AP2. If they try to fight and deny me either a refund in full or the above deal, I'm going to seek punitive damages AND a full refund on the car I have to pay 15k for AGAIN to have a clean, drivable car. What do you guys think? I know, before you flame me, that I should kick myself in the ass for this. But you live and learn...

BTW, if I end up making a deal and keeping the car, I'll have a complete part out BB AP1 up for grabs (minus the parts I mentioned). Cosmetically, on the surface, the car is clean and dent/scratch free with fresh paint, so all body panels/interior/lights/etc. will be available (everything but the chassis and engine/drivetrain). IF I get to keep it... (Just purchased my membership here, so I'll be able to post a FS thread if so).