New owner - car has close to 2 year old engine oil
06-08-2009, 09:19 AM
#22
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What most old wives forget or don't even know is that their S2000 engine has FRM cylinder walls.
FRM = Fibre Reinforced Metal.
Not the common chrome alloy stuff.
Not the stuff you want to drive-it-like-you-stole-it when new.
Why did Honda use this in the F20/F22?
Lower friction at higher revs.
Downside #1: it takes longer to break in.
Downside #2: it NEEDS the break in time to get a good ring/wall seal.
Dino oil will give you this.
2 year old dino in a sealed bottle = shake it and use it.
2 year old dino in a non sealed engine with some (allright: very little) combustion byproducts & oxigen eating away at the oil for 2 years = I say get some cheap fresh 10W-30 dino in there, you had a great deal on the CR so you must have money to burn
Who knows how often the car was started to move it around in a show room, giving the oil some fresh fuel and accids?
Even the normal maintenace schedule tells you to change oil at milage OR time.
Time = once a year.
Now.. if it takes a year of daily driving to get to 7,5k miles on true GPIV/GPV syn oil you can (and should
) leave it in there until you get to 10-12k miles.
No problem.
FRM = Fibre Reinforced Metal.
Not the common chrome alloy stuff.
Not the stuff you want to drive-it-like-you-stole-it when new.
Why did Honda use this in the F20/F22?
Lower friction at higher revs.
Downside #1: it takes longer to break in.
Downside #2: it NEEDS the break in time to get a good ring/wall seal.
Dino oil will give you this.
2 year old dino in a sealed bottle = shake it and use it.
2 year old dino in a non sealed engine with some (allright: very little) combustion byproducts & oxigen eating away at the oil for 2 years = I say get some cheap fresh 10W-30 dino in there, you had a great deal on the CR so you must have money to burn
Who knows how often the car was started to move it around in a show room, giving the oil some fresh fuel and accids?
Even the normal maintenace schedule tells you to change oil at milage OR time.
Time = once a year.
Now.. if it takes a year of daily driving to get to 7,5k miles on true GPIV/GPV syn oil you can (and should
) leave it in there until you get to 10-12k miles.No problem.
06-08-2009, 09:41 AM
#23
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Again Spit's original post is correct.
And several posts were flat out incorrect.
Moly is an assembly lube. When they put the engine together it is used liberally. I have never seen Honda tech memo on break-in oil, there is no magical break-in oil. Nor, do you need one. The crappiest straight weight oil will promote ring seating it just as well, without the catalytic converter problems, and meet the 100k US requirement.
Honda spec weight dino oil is the very best, since we don't break-in our motors in a climate control chamber.
Companies that break-in motors on test-stands or on a course, do spec synth..........after they are broken in.
Yes, honda, and most other mass-produced consumer cars are left completely up to the consumer on how it is broken in. That is why...RTFM.
If you get carbon coking as you break- in, you have far worse problems than ring sealing, you are running your two-stroke a bit rich.
There are plenty of people with oil consumption problems who have posted here over the years. If it loses oil all the time it is probably bad break-in; just on track days, it has the old pcv system; or if its changes on the oil brand, its prob you grp III M1 oil.
And several posts were flat out incorrect.
Moly is an assembly lube. When they put the engine together it is used liberally. I have never seen Honda tech memo on break-in oil, there is no magical break-in oil. Nor, do you need one. The crappiest straight weight oil will promote ring seating it just as well, without the catalytic converter problems, and meet the 100k US requirement.
Honda spec weight dino oil is the very best, since we don't break-in our motors in a climate control chamber.
Companies that break-in motors on test-stands or on a course, do spec synth..........after they are broken in.
Yes, honda, and most other mass-produced consumer cars are left completely up to the consumer on how it is broken in. That is why...RTFM.
If you get carbon coking as you break- in, you have far worse problems than ring sealing, you are running your two-stroke a bit rich.
There are plenty of people with oil consumption problems who have posted here over the years. If it loses oil all the time it is probably bad break-in; just on track days, it has the old pcv system; or if its changes on the oil brand, its prob you grp III M1 oil.
06-09-2009, 12:10 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by INTJ,Jun 8 2009, 09:41 AM
Again Spit's original post is correct.
And several posts were flat out incorrect.
Moly is an assembly lube. When they put the engine together it is used liberally. I have never seen Honda tech memo on break-in oil, there is no magical break-in oil. Nor, do you need one. The crappiest straight weight oil will promote ring seating it just as well, without the catalytic converter problems, and meet the 100k US requirement.
Honda spec weight dino oil is the very best, since we don't break-in our motors in a climate control chamber.
Companies that break-in motors on test-stands or on a course, do spec synth..........after they are broken in.
Yes, honda, and most other mass-produced consumer cars are left completely up to the consumer on how it is broken in. That is why...RTFM.
If you get carbon coking as you break- in, you have far worse problems than ring sealing, you are running your two-stroke a bit rich.
There are plenty of people with oil consumption problems who have posted here over the years. If it loses oil all the time it is probably bad break-in; just on track days, it has the old pcv system; or if its changes on the oil brand, its prob you grp III M1 oil.
And several posts were flat out incorrect.
Moly is an assembly lube. When they put the engine together it is used liberally. I have never seen Honda tech memo on break-in oil, there is no magical break-in oil. Nor, do you need one. The crappiest straight weight oil will promote ring seating it just as well, without the catalytic converter problems, and meet the 100k US requirement.
Honda spec weight dino oil is the very best, since we don't break-in our motors in a climate control chamber.
Companies that break-in motors on test-stands or on a course, do spec synth..........after they are broken in.
Yes, honda, and most other mass-produced consumer cars are left completely up to the consumer on how it is broken in. That is why...RTFM.
If you get carbon coking as you break- in, you have far worse problems than ring sealing, you are running your two-stroke a bit rich.
There are plenty of people with oil consumption problems who have posted here over the years. If it loses oil all the time it is probably bad break-in; just on track days, it has the old pcv system; or if its changes on the oil brand, its prob you grp III M1 oil.
My ap2 came from a women in her late 50's a with 5000 miles and I could tell it had never came close to vtec. Has not used a single drop of oil unlike my ap1 that I could tell had been driven hard and used oil.Throw some fresh 10/30 dino in there and call it a day
06-09-2009, 07:47 AM
#26
Originally Posted by YellowCRFan,Jun 7 2009, 04:06 AM
Thanks for all the advices. I would rather keep the oil in there but just worried about the oil degrading and picking up moisture from sitting in the engine for 2 yrs.
Is it confirmed that there is no "special Honda break-in oil" or there are still two separate camps on this?
Will do the "Roll Call" next week after pick up
Is it confirmed that there is no "special Honda break-in oil" or there are still two separate camps on this?
Will do the "Roll Call" next week after pick up
If it were me, I'd probably compromise a little and run the factory fill (say) 4,000mi ,then change to your preffered oil weather regular or synthetic. I do believe myself that full synthetic is more suitable after a full break-in.
06-09-2009, 02:07 PM
#27
Today my dealer called Honda Tech and was told that Honda does use a break-in oil and that the oil just sitting in the car should not be an issue. Just drive it on the highway for a while (which I need to do to get it home) to burn off the moistures in the oil. I agree with JackS and I'll probably change to dino maybe around 4000 miles and then sythentic after 10000 miles.
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