New Owner - 2005 S2000, drove hard after 700 miles
#1
New Owner - 2005 S2000, drove hard after 700 miles
I have a feeling he caused knock or messed up one of the cylinders.
He took it to 500 miles like the manual specified, but he didn't listen to me when I told him to break in the engine lightly and get it used to higher RPM.
Now at idle the engine makes a really noticable knock noise and has a rough idle. The check engine light also comes on from time to time and my friend said when he ran a diagnostic he got a report for Vapor Lock. Any ideas? I personally think he's screwed because he drove it too hard and might have to take it in.
He took it to 500 miles like the manual specified, but he didn't listen to me when I told him to break in the engine lightly and get it used to higher RPM.
Now at idle the engine makes a really noticable knock noise and has a rough idle. The check engine light also comes on from time to time and my friend said when he ran a diagnostic he got a report for Vapor Lock. Any ideas? I personally think he's screwed because he drove it too hard and might have to take it in.
#2
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Driving it hard has nothing to do with it. It's only recommended, not the law. The intelligent thing to do would be to take it to the dealership quickly before he gets slapped with negligence for letting the problem get too bad to be fixed under warranty.
#3
Originally Posted by Essenar,Dec 7 2004, 07:00 PM
he ran a diagnostic he got a report for Vapor Lock.
I'd almost bet he did a mechanical over-rev.
#4
Sorry, he got a DTC for an air problem but didn't give me the specific DTC code. He said he thinks it's vapor lock, but would that even cause knock noises?
Yeah telling him to go to dealership might be the best solution at this point.
So what you're saying is, you can drive the car like a compete a** and as long as warranty is still in tact, the engine gets replaced?
Yeah telling him to go to dealership might be the best solution at this point.
So what you're saying is, you can drive the car like a compete a** and as long as warranty is still in tact, the engine gets replaced?
#5
Originally Posted by Essenar,Dec 7 2004, 09:52 PM
Sorry, he got a DTC for an air problem but didn't give me the specific DTC code. He said he thinks it's vapor lock, but would that even cause knock noises?
Yeah telling him to go to dealership might be the best solution at this point.
So what you're saying is, you can drive the car like a compete a** and as long as warranty is still in tact, the engine gets replaced?
Yeah telling him to go to dealership might be the best solution at this point.
So what you're saying is, you can drive the car like a compete a** and as long as warranty is still in tact, the engine gets replaced?
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#8
Originally Posted by Essenar,Dec 7 2004, 07:52 PM
he got a DTC for an air problem but didn't give me the specific DTC code.
#9
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Sounds to me like he hydrolocked the beitch and won't admit it.
Then agian I've just been drinkine a bit.
I still standby the recommendation to take it into the dealership. I didn't say he could drive it like a total dick and get away with a free engine, I said if he didn't precisely follow break-in priocedure that it was not grounds for warranty termination.
Then agian I've just been drinkine a bit.
I still standby the recommendation to take it into the dealership. I didn't say he could drive it like a total dick and get away with a free engine, I said if he didn't precisely follow break-in priocedure that it was not grounds for warranty termination.
#10
Didn't they change the Rev-Limiter to 8K to prevent mechanical Over Revving? Cause the older models Redlined at 9K. I don't know if this is related or not but I've been driving my EK with a B20 VTEC with stock internals and sometimes I'll shift it at 8,500-9K to purposely see if it will blow or do something. Its been a year and a half and still no problems. So, why is the F20C/F22C so susceptible to mechanical over-revving? Thanks in advance.