johnnnys2k32

hello everybody Im john. I just bought my 2002 s2000 about a week ago and gotta say it is better than i ever dreamed and ive been dreaming of it for 5 years lol. Finally bought a garaged kept speciman in emaqulate shape inside and out from a 54 year old man who had it for 10 years 0 mods purchase price 13k. Was wondering first if it was a good deal and then had a couple of questions on top of it. Theres a raddle sound that can only be heard when the clutch is brought out slowly in first with not much gas and the shifter jiggles around, is this the clutch chatter i have heard so much about? Other thing is i have heard about valve retainers cracking is this very common if you drive the car how its supposed to be driven i mean you dont even get any real usable power till around 6 and a half thousand rpm and i dont think they would give it a 9k redline id it wasnt intended to be turned up like that. Another question i was going to ask is how often to check retainers and do valve adjustments. Any help would be appriciated. All in all though this car is amazing ive always owned american muscle my last car was a 97 ws6 trans am 6 speed and it was a blast but theres something about a 9k redline that is so viseral you think its gonna run out and it just doesnt not to mention the handleing is sick puts the T/A to shame lol

speakeasy2009

Congrats and welcome to the s2000 community. We all love our S2k's here and I also had to work for about 4 years to get my 01 AP1. Few things to know about this car -

1 - when you check the oil check BOTH sides of the stick, and use the lowest side reading.

2 - AP1 burn oil, mainly Mobil1. I use AMSOIL Signature Series Full Syn 10w30 in the motor, AMSOIL 5w30 in the trans and AMSOIL 75w90 Severe Gear in the diff. Best fluids to use by far and the oil you can let go for about 10K miles before a change.

3 - Use OEM oil filters

4 - Check your oil every few days, in AP1's it can burn up quick.

5 - The clutch rattle seems like the TO bearing, rust tends to build up on the spline as well. I would inspect the clutch.

6 - The rear diffs in these cars are like glass. DO NOT dump the clutch at 9K. If you do you will be replacing the rear end.

7 - As long as the car doesn't run low on oil or overheat you will have no major problems. You can rev to 9K all day long in this car.

13K wasn't a bad deal at all. The prices have risen on the car in recent years. Take good care of the motor because the 9K AP1 block is no longer available from Honda and change your fluids religiously. The K&N FIPK is a great intake that I use and take the CAT off for more power. Just use a test pipe and spacer.

Murphg05

I believe VA schedule is 100k

darcyw

Um, no. 100K mile VA schedule is just plain mental.

do it now. there is scads of information on here regarding valve adjustment periodicity. Don't be stupid- you just bought your current dream ride so don't skip on maintenance.

lastly, welcome and please, your OP is very nearly unreadable. my brain hurts from deciphering it.

darcy

TheRook

I think I've heard that valve adjustment was at 100k too but I really wouldn't suggest that, mine was done around 70k and the valves were out of spec (really quieted the motor after it was done), I've heard of people performing/needing it even sooner, some around 30k.

As for cracked retainers, you shouldn't have to worry unless you over revved the engine and/or drive the car really aggressive. You can check them during your valve adjustment since you have the valve cover off anyways. Or just pop off the cover and give them a quick look (I use a dental mirror to get a good look at them). But depending on how old your valve cover gasket is, you should buy a new one if you plan on taking off the cover.

A little movement in the shifter is normal as long as it's not dancing all over the place.

Sounds like you bought yourself a clean S, have fun and be safe.

iamxpl

speakeasy hit that nail on the head. also just make sure your tires are in good condition at all times. do a VA as soon as possible if the previous owner has not gotten it done. when you take off the valve cover to check you should buy the new gasket as mentioned but also buy new spark plug sealer gaskets. would be a good time to change them. and about launching, everyone has different techs, is it necessary? probably not. but launch above vtec. if you dont say bye bye rear end. just roll off the clutch and then punch it.

Reckon

Welcome and enjoy! Read this link and everything in the FAQ and DIY sections!

What to look for in a new (to you) S2000 - https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/775...-a-used-s2000/

FAQ and DIGY - https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/548...d-maintenance/

johnnnys2k32

Thank you guys very much for the welcome. Im getting my VA next week. I dont really have a day off this week. I have to take it to orlando to get my shop to work on it. Being a new car to me and having 70,000 miles what else should i replace just because? I already have a VA and the 60,000 mile scheduled maintanence on my list

iamxpl

do the axle nut TSB retorque while its at the shop. but other than that do not fix until it should be. the car will hold up just fine.

Billman250

The ONLY way the guy doing the valve adjustment is going to spot broken retainers is to know beforehand exactly what to look for. To the untrained eye, it is impossible to spot.

There are real good pics here on what to look for. Show them to him. He will be looking for recessed keepers, not cracks.

Spark plug torque is critical. If the guy babied the car, then you get it and start taking it to redline, this problem will surface very fast. Loose plugs will destroy the engine in the worst way. Anyone reading this should know their plugs are tight.

Be sure the plugs are torqued to 22 ft-lbs. This should be done with the valve adjustment while things are apart. The two jobs go hand and hand.

There is no such thing as a 60k service. There is such a thing as attending to every aspect of a specific car and its specific needs. This makes a 60k service a loss-leader. Don't buy into some "major service". Unless you like paying 300 bucks to change your oil, lube your non-lubeable bushings, adjust your non-adjustable transmission, and rotate your non-rotateable tires.

Avoid the dealer at all costs. Find a smaller independent repair shop that people like and can vouch for.

If you have a 60k service list, please post it. I assure you 3/4 of what your S2000 truly needs is missing, and half of it is glorified crap it doesn't need.