Slows2k

If you removed a functioning clutch to there really isnt any reason to adjust the master cylinder pushrod. I have no idea why so many screw around with a clutch adjustment when it wasn't out of adjustment to begin with.

Put the pushrod back where it was.

dsddcd

Update: I adjusted the clutch pedal all the way out as far as I could get it and bled the system for a 5th time. I can get full disengagement of the clutch now but it is still VERY, VERY low.

That being said I am pretty sure that the issue is multifaceted:

1.) The OEM disc is slightly thicker than the ACT design which requires 100% pedal travel in order to release the clutch disc.

2.) The older hydraulic system has a small amount of bleed by or something associated with wear and is not capable of achieving full slave cylinder travel.

dantediss

Ok, im not flaming or being a di$@ but i want to try and understand this. You say its very very low, do you mean engagement , disengagement of the clutch ?? As in car in neutral, clutch all the way in , shifter put into first,.. and then when releasing the clutch pedal it engages about half an inch to an inch from fully depressed ?? If so then your clutch is operating fine. It shouldnt engage disengage, towards the top of the pedal throw. Thats a sign its worn out. If its hard to get into gears, up or down then yes thats a problem. You shouldnt have to force anything. But if the problem is a low engage ,disengage issue, then thats not a problem at all, and actually the desired effect of a clutch. The pedal should be 100% depressed before making any gear changes , the closer to fully depressed upon pedal release that the clutch engages and grabs, means for faster shifts. Its hard to get used to at first , but its second nature within a day or 2. And if that is the problem be careful at first because its easy to glaze the clutch, and or ride the clutch too long letting the pedal out slow.

EsTooTouseng

i believe thats your problem. thats what i did assuming it will force the slave yo push the fork further to disengage the clutch but no, it made it worse in my case

EsTooTouseng

[quote name='MisMyS' timestamp='1338608060' post='21748064']
Update: I adjusted the clutch pedal all the way out as far as I could get it and bled the system for a 5th time. I can get full disengagement of the clutch now but it is still VERY, VERY low.

That being said I am pretty sure that the issue is multifaceted:

i believe thats your problem. thats what i did assuming it will force the slave yo push the fork further to disengage the clutch but no, it made it worse in my case.

look in my thread that i started and this picture that Alf_09NFR posted is what made me realize why extending the rod as far as possible does not help in our case. perhaps in a cable actuated clutch that would work

dsddcd

Good news I drove the car about 350miles yesterday. As the day progressed the disengagement improved back to a stock feel, albeit with the pedal still adjusted all the way out. At this point I am unsure if the change was from the initial wear on the clutch disc, the hydraulic system bleeding, or breaking of the pressure plate but it is better.


Thank you very much for your input. After more time driving and diagnostics I have determined that a portion of the issues was the same but I still believe there are other problems with mine.

Disengagement was at the firewall, i.e. fully depressed, anything higher would not allow a clean shift. As you mention, and I agree with, every S2000 I have driven has a low release, it is just how they are designed. In this case it was different, it could be air in the system as bleeding seemed to help, tolerances, bad hydraulics or what I believe is a combination of all three. I still believe that at least a portion of the problem is in the master cylinder. I never opened the hydraulic system during the clutch replacement to allow air into it so there is no reason bleeding should have helped. As with most the S2000's I have seen the clutch fluid was VERY dirty when I installed the clutch. When I purchase the car, at 39,000 miles, I checked the fluid and for a leaking master cylinder and both were okay. During the clutch install, at 41,200 miles, I checked again and the fluid was filthy. This leads me to believe the bore in the master cylinder is in poor shape and probably bypassing a small amount.

I will post up more detail when I get the hydraulics replaced. Thanks Again!