New clutch burning smell when under load
#22
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Location: Snellville, GA
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i have the competition clutch stage 2 setup with the light weight flywheel, through out bearing, and pressure plate all installed. I had the same problem 1500 miles into my break in. Still smelled the faint smell of a new clutch every once in a while. After about 3000 miles it finally went away. Give it more time. At 1500 miles my clutch grabbed hard as hell, never slipped and even if I didnt even slip the clutch at all through the day I would still smell the GREAT smell of a glazing clutch.
Like I said give it a little more time it will slowly start to go away. Every once in a while I still think I smell it, but it could be that I was just so use to smelling it that I still think I do, and by the way I am almost 6,000 miles into my break in.
Good luck, but just do what Comp. Clutch said, dont worry about it...
Like I said give it a little more time it will slowly start to go away. Every once in a while I still think I smell it, but it could be that I was just so use to smelling it that I still think I do, and by the way I am almost 6,000 miles into my break in.
Good luck, but just do what Comp. Clutch said, dont worry about it...
#24
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I have a quick question, are you giving a lot of throttle as you feather the clutch? ... any clutch will slip if you try and feather the clutch at 6k rpms =P
#25
Thank you all for your replies S2Kage, wokuku, dtmcnamara and supahman04
Indeed it would be a shame to remove this clutch in terms of effort and money spent and go back to an OEM set-up ! Did any of you have any judder problems with newly installed uprated aftermarket clutches ? I have to constantly fight this clutch by feathering / launching at slightly higher revs than an oem clutch. I find this rather annoying especially when considering that judder causes stress on the works, engine and gearbox mountings etc.
I used to launch the car @ 2K rpm with an oem clutch and now I use 2.5 to 3K rpm with the Competition Clutch (depending on the load circumstances).
Clutch pedal engagement point is the same as OEM.
If I burn out this clutch I would have to pay for the works, whereas if I take the Honda dealership offer it would be for free once again as they have "their finger in the pie" as they were involved in the recommendation and purchase of my 2nd-hand S2K. "Catch-22" situation, huh ?
Rgds,
pfspeeddemon
Indeed it would be a shame to remove this clutch in terms of effort and money spent and go back to an OEM set-up ! Did any of you have any judder problems with newly installed uprated aftermarket clutches ? I have to constantly fight this clutch by feathering / launching at slightly higher revs than an oem clutch. I find this rather annoying especially when considering that judder causes stress on the works, engine and gearbox mountings etc.
I used to launch the car @ 2K rpm with an oem clutch and now I use 2.5 to 3K rpm with the Competition Clutch (depending on the load circumstances).
Clutch pedal engagement point is the same as OEM.
If I burn out this clutch I would have to pay for the works, whereas if I take the Honda dealership offer it would be for free once again as they have "their finger in the pie" as they were involved in the recommendation and purchase of my 2nd-hand S2K. "Catch-22" situation, huh ?
Rgds,
pfspeeddemon
#26
get rid if the comp clutch take the oem clutch and flywheel deal deal Ask them to put in an ap1 flywheel. It's lots lighter and will give you a little hp boost.
fltsfshr
fltsfshr
#27
If you are experiencing judder with any aftermarket clutch, it's because you aren't letting the clutch out quickly enough or smoothly enough.
On my CC setup, the engagement point is pretty high. Just let the clutch out, just prior to the bite point, then let it out relatively fast and smoothly. Do not hold the clutch at the bite point, just let that bitch out! (but don't dump it like it's hot)Minimal throttle is required. You shouldn't be revving higher than 2K rpm for normal starts.
Heck, on level and downhill surfaces, you should be able to let the clutch all the way out smoothly with no throttle, just like with the OEM clutches.
On my CC setup, the engagement point is pretty high. Just let the clutch out, just prior to the bite point, then let it out relatively fast and smoothly. Do not hold the clutch at the bite point, just let that bitch out! (but don't dump it like it's hot)Minimal throttle is required. You shouldn't be revving higher than 2K rpm for normal starts.
Heck, on level and downhill surfaces, you should be able to let the clutch all the way out smoothly with no throttle, just like with the OEM clutches.
#28
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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I have the competition stage two clutch as well. I have about 3 to 4 k on it and I have the same problem. I to rev slightly as I pull out of places, and I always notice the smell when there is more load then average I.E. slight incline.. it's quite annoying.. my other issue is that I can't seem to quite get used to the clutch.. seems like point of engagement is slightly changing on the pedal... grr =(
I say go back to OEM unless you have plans for FI... I miss my OEM clutch =(
I say go back to OEM unless you have plans for FI... I miss my OEM clutch =(
#29
To Opposite Lock & LewiS2K: it's been a while since I've visited this topic / site. I can't comment on the Competition Clutch : the morons at the local Honda dealership had mounted the Competition Clutch kit on the old flywheel without having the decency / competence to check it to see if it needed resurfacing or changing and it was so badly warped that it destroyed the new Competition Clutch kit. After a lot of arguments with the local Honda dealership they agreed to redo the job but I am back with an OEM clutch kit and new OEM flywheel. The new OEM clutch still smells when loaded slightly as I reverse my car up my slightly steep garage ramp.
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