new ACT but 0-100% in 1 inch
#11
i took the play out of the pedal but just by twisting it with my fingers but i didnt change the range of engagement any.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry5234269
Do it wrong and you may be in an even worse state than before.
i just got back from AAMCO and he told me the only thing i can do short of replacing the fly wheel, is install an extended slave cylinder rod... where can i buy that from
Second: OK, let's pursue AAMCO's train of thought .......................... You say your clutch friction point is near the top ("last inch"). In other words, you'd like it if you could actually lift your pedal up more or have it engage a lot sooner, right? Going by this logic, you would need a SHORTER slave cylinder rod, NOT a longer one. Putting in an extended rod would raise the engagement point even further up, to the point where it won't engage at all. Those guys are full of
C R A P !!!
They likely did something wrong or they didn't finish the job (left some step out) and now they are stumped to figure out what that may have been.
Oh, BTW, did they mention that you now need a wheel alignment? I'll bet not.
#12
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[QUOTE=TheOtherHalf,Jul 10 2006, 02:53 PM]i just got back from AAMCO and he told me the only thing i can do short of replacing the fly wheel, is install an extended slave cylinder rod...
#13
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There is a difference between an OEM and aftermarket replacement clutch disc, and a high performance clutch disc.
The orginal/OEM replacement type disc is NOT flat. It has a conical shape (a.k.a. marcel, belleville design). Therefore, as you slowly release the pedal, the outer most portion of the disc begins to engage first. Then as you release the pedal further the entire friction surface of the disc becomes engaged as the disc deforms and becomes flat.
If the disc is ~.100" from being flat, the release levers on the disc are a 4:1 ratio, the throwout fork is a 2:1 ratio, and the pedal is a 2:1 ratio, the total pedal travel from the beginning of engagement to full engagement is 1.6" (seems normal, right). This is what you are accustom to feeling. You can make a nice smooth take off from the stop light and your wife/girlfriend won't complain about the way you drive.
A high performance disc is/should be completely flat (+/- .005"). Therefore, it is an "On or Off Switch". It will be either fully engaged or fully disengaged. You will not have that smooth transition/slippage during engagement. Therefore, the clutch engagement will occur at the end of travel of the pressure plate/pedal. It take a little getting used to, but after a couple of days of driving your wife/girlfriend will only occasionaly complain about the way you drive.
I hope this helps.
Greenlight
The orginal/OEM replacement type disc is NOT flat. It has a conical shape (a.k.a. marcel, belleville design). Therefore, as you slowly release the pedal, the outer most portion of the disc begins to engage first. Then as you release the pedal further the entire friction surface of the disc becomes engaged as the disc deforms and becomes flat.
If the disc is ~.100" from being flat, the release levers on the disc are a 4:1 ratio, the throwout fork is a 2:1 ratio, and the pedal is a 2:1 ratio, the total pedal travel from the beginning of engagement to full engagement is 1.6" (seems normal, right). This is what you are accustom to feeling. You can make a nice smooth take off from the stop light and your wife/girlfriend won't complain about the way you drive.
A high performance disc is/should be completely flat (+/- .005"). Therefore, it is an "On or Off Switch". It will be either fully engaged or fully disengaged. You will not have that smooth transition/slippage during engagement. Therefore, the clutch engagement will occur at the end of travel of the pressure plate/pedal. It take a little getting used to, but after a couple of days of driving your wife/girlfriend will only occasionaly complain about the way you drive.
I hope this helps.
Greenlight
#15
Originally Posted by xviper,Jul 10 2006, 09:49 PM
Isn't the ACT street disc just a "reworked" OEM disc?
#16
Thread Starter
Not to shoot down helpful information but, what he was talking about and showed me made since. My concern is the fact that I appear to be the first one. A longer slave cylinder rod would work make it engage sooner. The on and off theory would make since but does that ably to the ACT disc? I have a hard time believing Honda didn
#17
Originally Posted by TheOtherHalf,Jul 11 2006, 09:26 AM
A longer slave cylinder rod would work make it engage sooner.
This principle would be valid on a car where the clutch system "pushes" to disengage the clutch. On the S2000, it "pulls".
I think they put something in wrong or they didn't grease stuff that should have been greased.
#18
Originally Posted by cdelena,Jul 11 2006, 08:25 AM
Yes, it is my understanding it is simply a relabeled OEM FD, in fact I thought a board member reported that fact was confirmed by someone at ACT. Sure looks the same to me. (I was told it is the PP that is a modified OEM unit).
#19
def. sounds like it's because the flywheel was machined. happend to my brothers integra, very annoying. when i worked for honda they told you not to machine the flywheel because of that, on any honda.
#20
Originally Posted by danthemans2k,Jul 11 2006, 04:18 PM
def. sounds like it's because the flywheel was machined. happend to my brothers integra, very annoying. when i worked for honda they told you not to machine the flywheel because of that, on any honda.
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