xviper

What exactly are you doing? If done correctly, the rod adjustment should dial out much of what ails your clutch. Here is a post about this rod adjustment, but again, this is a LAST RESORT, when all else has been eliminated ......................
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry5234269
Do it wrong and you may be in an even worse state than before.

First of all, you can't buy one of these. In the history of people putting in new clutches into S2000s, noone has needed to change the length of the slave rod. Ask yourself why, all of a sudden, you've become the very first one.

Second: OK, let's pursue AAMCO's train of thought .......................... You say your clutch friction point is near the top ("last inch"). In other words, you'd like it if you could actually lift your pedal up more or have it engage a lot sooner, right? Going by this logic, you would need a SHORTER slave cylinder rod, NOT a longer one. Putting in an extended rod would raise the engagement point even further up, to the point where it won't engage at all. Those guys are full of
C R A P !!!
They likely did something wrong or they didn't finish the job (left some step out) and now they are stumped to figure out what that may have been.

Oh, BTW, did they mention that you now need a wheel alignment? I'll bet not.

RED MX5

[QUOTE=TheOtherHalf,Jul 10 2006, 02:53 PM]i just got back from AAMCO and he told me the only thing i can do short of replacing the fly wheel, is install an extended slave cylinder rod...

Greenlight

There is a difference between an OEM and aftermarket replacement clutch disc, and a high performance clutch disc.

The orginal/OEM replacement type disc is NOT flat. It has a conical shape (a.k.a. marcel, belleville design). Therefore, as you slowly release the pedal, the outer most portion of the disc begins to engage first. Then as you release the pedal further the entire friction surface of the disc becomes engaged as the disc deforms and becomes flat.

If the disc is ~.100" from being flat, the release levers on the disc are a 4:1 ratio, the throwout fork is a 2:1 ratio, and the pedal is a 2:1 ratio, the total pedal travel from the beginning of engagement to full engagement is 1.6" (seems normal, right). This is what you are accustom to feeling. You can make a nice smooth take off from the stop light and your wife/girlfriend won't complain about the way you drive.

A high performance disc is/should be completely flat (+/- .005"). Therefore, it is an "On or Off Switch". It will be either fully engaged or fully disengaged. You will not have that smooth transition/slippage during engagement. Therefore, the clutch engagement will occur at the end of travel of the pressure plate/pedal. It take a little getting used to, but after a couple of days of driving your wife/girlfriend will only occasionaly complain about the way you drive.

I hope this helps.

Greenlight

xviper

Isn't the ACT street disc just a "reworked" OEM disc?

cdelena

Yes, it is my understanding it is simply a relabeled OEM FD, in fact I thought a board member reported that fact was confirmed by someone at ACT. Sure looks the same to me. (I was told it is the PP that is a modified OEM unit).

TheOtherHalf

Not to shoot down helpful information but, what he was talking about and showed me made since. My concern is the fact that I appear to be the first one. A longer slave cylinder rod would work make it engage sooner. The on and off theory would make since but does that ably to the ACT disc? I have a hard time believing Honda didn

xviper

You see. This is what kinda confirms to me that those guys are out to lunch. A longer rod would make the clutch "engage" later and possibly not engage at all.
This principle would be valid on a car where the clutch system "pushes" to disengage the clutch. On the S2000, it "pulls".
I think they put something in wrong or they didn't grease stuff that should have been greased.

xviper

This was also my understanding as well. Therefore, "Greenlight's" information would not apply here since we are dealing with OEM parts (reworked as they may be).

danthemans2k

def. sounds like it's because the flywheel was machined. happend to my brothers integra, very annoying. when i worked for honda they told you not to machine the flywheel because of that, on any honda.

xviper

Perhaps. I've heard of S2000 flywheels (local cars) that have been machined with no such issues. In this case, it may have been machined beyond the tolerances stamped on the part. Afterall, we're talking AAMCO here.