Needing some help
10-14-2015, 02:37 PM
#1
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Needing some help
So, yet another problem... I made the mistake of buying an s2k from some young boy-racer kid. Got it down to a great price, but starting to think I should've just bought one @ 18k and saved the pita this has been. Basically have had to replace the whole car, and now the clutch is pedal has seized. I had depressed the clutch pedal at a light and it wouldn't return back up. Stupidly turned off the car, and now it won't even start. It slides easily into all gears with the car off (obviously) and have gone through and checked the lines with no visible leaks. The master cylinder was replaced ~600 miles ago, so I'm hoping its not that. Slave cylinder looks pretty rough and the boot around the slave cylinder ball joint and pushrod is torn to mess. Assuming that moisture got in and seized the pushrod in place. Going to pump some grease in there and replace the boot, and hope for the best. Any insights would be HUGELY appreciated. I just want to have her back up and running again. Thank you guys so much ahead of time!Visual inspection video
10-14-2015, 03:49 PM
#2
Make sure its not the pedal linkage. Disconnect push rod from pedal to mc, see if pedal moves freely.
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10-16-2015, 08:40 AM
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The pushrod has the force of the entire clutch pushing it back. If it siezed against that much force, you would have had a hell of a time pushing the pedal down.
Check your fluid. I'm guessing its gone. Finding out where it went is step 2. Fixing that is step 3.
From what you're saying, maybe its a failed (leaking) slave cylinder. Not siezed...but inactive.
If the problem doesn't lie in the pedal or hydraulic system, it may be the clutch itself has a broken diaphragm or seperated throw out bearing or broken fork, etc.
The car should start if you put it in neutral and start it (push the pedal down all the way to engage the clutch interlock switch). If its in a gear, it will probably lurch forward.
If it is not starting in neutral, that's a bad sign that something in the clutch system may have broken and jammed itself into the flywheel. But then again...the car was running until you turned it off.
Check your fluid. I'm guessing its gone. Finding out where it went is step 2. Fixing that is step 3.
From what you're saying, maybe its a failed (leaking) slave cylinder. Not siezed...but inactive.
If the problem doesn't lie in the pedal or hydraulic system, it may be the clutch itself has a broken diaphragm or seperated throw out bearing or broken fork, etc.
The car should start if you put it in neutral and start it (push the pedal down all the way to engage the clutch interlock switch). If its in a gear, it will probably lurch forward.
If it is not starting in neutral, that's a bad sign that something in the clutch system may have broken and jammed itself into the flywheel. But then again...the car was running until you turned it off.
10-16-2015, 08:45 AM
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Whomever replaced the master cylinder may have left the cotter pin loose or out. The pin holding the master cylinder rod to the pedal may have fallen out. I'd check that as well.
10-19-2015, 07:01 PM
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The pushrod has the force of the entire clutch pushing it back. If it siezed against that much force, you would have had a hell of a time pushing the pedal down.
Check your fluid. I'm guessing its gone. Finding out where it went is step 2. Fixing that is step 3.
From what you're saying, maybe its a failed (leaking) slave cylinder. Not siezed...but inactive.
If the problem doesn't lie in the pedal or hydraulic system, it may be the clutch itself has a broken diaphragm or seperated throw out bearing or broken fork, etc.
The car should start if you put it in neutral and start it (push the pedal down all the way to engage the clutch interlock switch). If its in a gear, it will probably lurch forward.
If it is not starting in neutral, that's a bad sign that something in the clutch system may have broken and jammed itself into the flywheel. But then again...the car was running until you turned it off.
Check your fluid. I'm guessing its gone. Finding out where it went is step 2. Fixing that is step 3.
From what you're saying, maybe its a failed (leaking) slave cylinder. Not siezed...but inactive.
If the problem doesn't lie in the pedal or hydraulic system, it may be the clutch itself has a broken diaphragm or seperated throw out bearing or broken fork, etc.
The car should start if you put it in neutral and start it (push the pedal down all the way to engage the clutch interlock switch). If its in a gear, it will probably lurch forward.
If it is not starting in neutral, that's a bad sign that something in the clutch system may have broken and jammed itself into the flywheel. But then again...the car was running until you turned it off.
So today was a busy and disappointing day. I went ahead and checked all your suggestions. Pedal linkage was good, cotter pin was still connected, no large fluid leaks (small amount from MC push-rod, but nothing detrimental), and fluid was right at the proper level. I noticed the MC was leaking a small bit and the slave cylinder wasn't replaced when the MC last was (just 3500 miles ago), so I installed a new one of each today and bled the system. Also managed to knock out an oil change, filter, and trans fluid change. But, end of the day, none of it mattered. Went to start her, got her started but noticed I am unable to shift into any gear. The hydraulic system seems to push the slave cylinder ball joint out, but then stays extended. The clutch release push-rod doesn't push the slave cylinder back into place. So the system doesn't return the pressure to the pedal. The clutch release push-rod had fallen out of its retaining clip when I removed the old slave cylinder. I hoped it was just not seated properly, so lifted the car back up, tried to re-seat it, but each time it seems to have the same problem. It just wont push the slave cylinder back... I'm somewhat afraid what this might mean considering the clutch, and flywheel were both just replaced 2000 miles ago. And yes, I did follow proper clutch break-in for 500 miles. Is there possibly a certain angle to re-seat the clutch release push-rod that I might just not be trying? I'm completely clueless. I wonder if Billman has experienced this issue before. Again, thank you for the input everyone.
10-19-2015, 07:23 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Car Analogy' timestamp='1444866547' post='23775727
Make sure its not the pedal linkage. Disconnect push rod from pedal to mc, see if pedal moves freely.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
The pushrod has the force of the entire clutch pushing it back. If it siezed against that much force, you would have had a hell of a time pushing the pedal down.
Check your fluid. I'm guessing its gone. Finding out where it went is step 2. Fixing that is step 3.
From what you're saying, maybe its a failed (leaking) slave cylinder. Not siezed...but inactive.
If the problem doesn't lie in the pedal or hydraulic system, it may be the clutch itself has a broken diaphragm or seperated throw out bearing or broken fork, etc.
The car should start if you put it in neutral and start it (push the pedal down all the way to engage the clutch interlock switch). If its in a gear, it will probably lurch forward.
If it is not starting in neutral, that's a bad sign that something in the clutch system may have broken and jammed itself into the flywheel. But then again...the car was running until you turned it off.
Check your fluid. I'm guessing its gone. Finding out where it went is step 2. Fixing that is step 3.
From what you're saying, maybe its a failed (leaking) slave cylinder. Not siezed...but inactive.
If the problem doesn't lie in the pedal or hydraulic system, it may be the clutch itself has a broken diaphragm or seperated throw out bearing or broken fork, etc.
The car should start if you put it in neutral and start it (push the pedal down all the way to engage the clutch interlock switch). If its in a gear, it will probably lurch forward.
If it is not starting in neutral, that's a bad sign that something in the clutch system may have broken and jammed itself into the flywheel. But then again...the car was running until you turned it off.
So today was a busy and disappointing day. I went ahead and checked all your suggestions. Pedal linkage was good, cotter pin was still connected, no large fluid leaks (small amount from MC push-rod, but nothing detrimental), and fluid was right at the proper level. I noticed the MC was leaking a small bit and the slave cylinder wasn't replaced when the MC last was (just 3500 miles ago), so I installed a new one of each today and bled the system. Also managed to knock out an oil change, filter, and trans fluid change. But, end of the day, none of it mattered. Went to start her, got her started but noticed I am unable to shift into any gear. The hydraulic system seems to push the slave cylinder ball joint out, but then stays extended. The clutch release push-rod doesn't push the slave cylinder back into place. So the system doesn't return the pressure to the pedal. The clutch release push-rod had fallen out of its retaining clip when I removed the old slave cylinder. I hoped it was just not seated properly, so lifted the car back up, tried to re-seat it, but each time it seems to have the same problem. It just wont push the slave cylinder back... I'm somewhat afraid what this might mean considering the clutch, and flywheel were both just replaced 2000 miles ago. And yes, I did follow proper clutch break-in for 500 miles. Is there possibly a certain angle to re-seat the clutch release push-rod that I might just not be trying? I'm completely clueless. I wonder if Billman has experienced this issue before. Again, thank you for the input everyone.
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10-20-2015, 10:57 AM
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Try unbolting the slave cylinder and removing the boot. Then look into the fork hole (hehehe) while actuating the fork with your hand. Push the fork forward and backward to simulate what the slave cylinder pushrod does. See if you can find the disconnect.
10-20-2015, 03:31 PM
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The Culprit
Thank you once again for the feedback everyone. Checked all of the listed above and think I've narrowed it down. Seems like the release bearing has decided to pull itself apart. So now it's basically just free-floating. Anyone have mechanics in Raleigh NC area they might be able to recommend? Unfortunately I feel like my apartment complex wouldn't be too thrilled with me if I tried dropping the bell housing in the parking lot.
Thank you once again for the feedback everyone. Checked all of the listed above and think I've narrowed it down. Seems like the release bearing has decided to pull itself apart. So now it's basically just free-floating. Anyone have mechanics in Raleigh NC area they might be able to recommend? Unfortunately I feel like my apartment complex wouldn't be too thrilled with me if I tried dropping the bell housing in the parking lot.