Need some help with oil jet bolt install
03-11-2012, 04:31 PM
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Need some help with oil jet bolt install
Well I was doing the oil jet bolt install and it seems to be going fairly well. I got all the bolts in even number 1. I wasn't sure how good my torque wrench was (was about $30). It's one of the ones that click and it's a 3/8 in drive. I don't know how accurate the numbers on there were though but it is in inch lbs so if it is off a few it probably isn't a huge deal. I set it to around 144inch lbs and when I got it clicked it seemed to be at the same tightness as when I took them off so it eased my mind a bit.
But the issue I ran into is when sealing the pan. The manual doesn't have any real direction on applying the RTV and neither does the do it your own. I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of how to apply the rtv to the pan and if I should apply it to the bolts?
EDIT: after looking at the torque wrench again a fell much better. The part that isn't in Inch Lbs doesn't move but the part that moves is in Ft bls. So I had it at 120 inch lbs and moved the nob to 2 (2 additional Ft lbs). making it 144 on the dot. I had put at 2 it being the point between the two that made sense not realizing it was in Ft lbs and the numbers were actually accurate.. So it should all be good.
But the issue I ran into is when sealing the pan. The manual doesn't have any real direction on applying the RTV and neither does the do it your own. I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of how to apply the rtv to the pan and if I should apply it to the bolts?
EDIT: after looking at the torque wrench again a fell much better. The part that isn't in Inch Lbs doesn't move but the part that moves is in Ft bls. So I had it at 120 inch lbs and moved the nob to 2 (2 additional Ft lbs). making it 144 on the dot. I had put at 2 it being the point between the two that made sense not realizing it was in Ft lbs and the numbers were actually accurate.. So it should all be good.
03-11-2012, 05:17 PM
#2
Run a constant bead of silicone around the entire perimeter to the inside of each bolt hole, so basically center the bead in the middle between the bolt holes and the inside edge of the pan. The bead doesn't have to be very wide, maybe 5mm max and 2mm -3mm thick. On my sealant tube I cut the nozzle at the second cut off point. I put a small dab in each bolt hole using my finger so when you put the bolts through they help seal up. Don't put donuts of sealant around the bolt holes on the pan like some people think is needed.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
03-11-2012, 06:26 PM
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Run a constant bead of silicone around the entire perimeter to the inside of each bolt hole, so basically center the bead in the middle between the bolt holes and the inside edge of the pan. The bead doesn't have to be very wide, maybe 5mm max and 2mm -3mm thick. On my sealant tube I cut the nozzle at the second cut off point. I put a small dab in each bolt hole using my finger so when you put the bolts through they help seal up. Don't put donuts of sealant around the bolt holes on the pan like some people think is needed.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
I don't trust my jack to keep the pan in place for 45 minutes. Is there another option? Maybe putting a few bolts in but just hand tightening them?
03-11-2012, 06:34 PM
#5
Originally Posted by JFUSION' timestamp='1331515044' post='21499320
Run a constant bead of silicone around the entire perimeter to the inside of each bolt hole, so basically center the bead in the middle between the bolt holes and the inside edge of the pan. The bead doesn't have to be very wide, maybe 5mm max and 2mm -3mm thick. On my sealant tube I cut the nozzle at the second cut off point. I put a small dab in each bolt hole using my finger so when you put the bolts through they help seal up. Don't put donuts of sealant around the bolt holes on the pan like some people think is needed.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
I don't trust my jack to keep the pan in place for 45 minutes. Is there another option? Maybe putting a few bolts in but just hand tightening them?
03-11-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by erikvanden' timestamp='1331519169' post='21499468
[quote name='JFUSION' timestamp='1331515044' post='21499320']
Run a constant bead of silicone around the entire perimeter to the inside of each bolt hole, so basically center the bead in the middle between the bolt holes and the inside edge of the pan. The bead doesn't have to be very wide, maybe 5mm max and 2mm -3mm thick. On my sealant tube I cut the nozzle at the second cut off point. I put a small dab in each bolt hole using my finger so when you put the bolts through they help seal up. Don't put donuts of sealant around the bolt holes on the pan like some people think is needed.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
Run a constant bead of silicone around the entire perimeter to the inside of each bolt hole, so basically center the bead in the middle between the bolt holes and the inside edge of the pan. The bead doesn't have to be very wide, maybe 5mm max and 2mm -3mm thick. On my sealant tube I cut the nozzle at the second cut off point. I put a small dab in each bolt hole using my finger so when you put the bolts through they help seal up. Don't put donuts of sealant around the bolt holes on the pan like some people think is needed.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
I don't trust my jack to keep the pan in place for 45 minutes. Is there another option? Maybe putting a few bolts in but just hand tightening them?
[/quote]
do the pans normally seal up without any problems?
03-11-2012, 08:46 PM
#7
Originally Posted by JFUSION' timestamp='1331519667' post='21499480
[quote name='erikvanden' timestamp='1331519169' post='21499468']
[quote name='JFUSION' timestamp='1331515044' post='21499320']
Run a constant bead of silicone around the entire perimeter to the inside of each bolt hole, so basically center the bead in the middle between the bolt holes and the inside edge of the pan. The bead doesn't have to be very wide, maybe 5mm max and 2mm -3mm thick. On my sealant tube I cut the nozzle at the second cut off point. I put a small dab in each bolt hole using my finger so when you put the bolts through they help seal up. Don't put donuts of sealant around the bolt holes on the pan like some people think is needed.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
[quote name='JFUSION' timestamp='1331515044' post='21499320']
Run a constant bead of silicone around the entire perimeter to the inside of each bolt hole, so basically center the bead in the middle between the bolt holes and the inside edge of the pan. The bead doesn't have to be very wide, maybe 5mm max and 2mm -3mm thick. On my sealant tube I cut the nozzle at the second cut off point. I put a small dab in each bolt hole using my finger so when you put the bolts through they help seal up. Don't put donuts of sealant around the bolt holes on the pan like some people think is needed.
Make sure you have the two dowel pins installed in the pan, then I lifted it up to the point where it touched the block and the dowel pins were fitted. I held the pan in place with a jack, just to the point where the sealant oozes to the outside edge of the pan, not totally tight as you don't want to the two surfaces to touch overly tight, just enough to squeeze some sealant to the edge of the pan evenly around the entire perimeter. Then leave it in place for 45 mins to 60 mins to semi cure without tightening or installing any bolts. After 45-60 mins install the bolts in a criss-cross pattern from center outwards, and torque to spec in 2-3 steps up to the final torque setting.
I kind of lost you on the torque wrench matter, personally I would never use a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch torque wrench for any setting under 20 ft lbs, they are very inaccurate on low settings and it's a good way to strip a bolt. I use a 3/8th torque wrench for 0-20 ft lbs (0-240 inch lbs). I use a 1/2 inch torque wrench for 21-250 ft lbs. 3/4 inch wrenches are for some serious torque settings for the most part. But if you made it work, that is good enough.
I don't trust my jack to keep the pan in place for 45 minutes. Is there another option? Maybe putting a few bolts in but just hand tightening them?
[/quote]
do the pans normally seal up without any problems?
[/quote]
It would be rare for a pan not to seal up properly, you would have to miss an area when applying the bead of sealant for that to happen. You also need to allow the sealant to cure prior to filling the engine with oil and running it. My car was in storage so I waited 24 hours, I think the sealant needs at least 4 hours minimum, but if you can wait longer the better.
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03-12-2012, 07:18 AM
#8
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Let me give you a big warning about the s2k oilpan.
There 3 bolts that are very long in the back. These are hard to mix up.
However, there is ONE medium length bolt. it is supposed to go in the front of the oil pan, one bolt hole from the left. you will see where the oil pan has a deeper hole for this bolt.
IF THIS BOLT IS INSTALLED on ANY hole in the left side of the engine, it will bottom out and break off a chuck of the engine block internally. It will get sucked into the oil pump pickup and starve the engine of oil.
Not sure if anyone saw my panic thread about the innovative mounts which I deleted. Turns out the cause of engine failure was this incorrectly installed oil pan bolt!
So take note.
There 3 bolts that are very long in the back. These are hard to mix up.
However, there is ONE medium length bolt. it is supposed to go in the front of the oil pan, one bolt hole from the left. you will see where the oil pan has a deeper hole for this bolt.
IF THIS BOLT IS INSTALLED on ANY hole in the left side of the engine, it will bottom out and break off a chuck of the engine block internally. It will get sucked into the oil pump pickup and starve the engine of oil.
Not sure if anyone saw my panic thread about the innovative mounts which I deleted. Turns out the cause of engine failure was this incorrectly installed oil pan bolt!
So take note.
03-12-2012, 07:52 AM
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Thanks for the pointers. I still have my car in "storage" so I have been taking my sweet time doing the job as I have no rush what so ever. I plan to get the pan back on tonight and maybe some oil in it and next weekend put the oil in and see if it runs.