Need a quick answer please
03-29-2006, 07:58 AM
#51
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Originally Posted by jasonw,Mar 28 2006, 03:38 PM
pm hondamanwill!
and i saw brand new oil pan in his garage.... he probabaly sold it, but it wont hurt to ask.
hondamanwill is very nice guy.
03-29-2006, 02:23 PM
#52
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I do have hondamanwill coming over to fix it for me. I already ordered and paid for the new oil pan at honda, it cost $300. Any chance they will let me return it, I know there is a restocking fee or something, but I would still save more money returning it. I'm going to ask tomorrow.
03-29-2006, 07:01 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by Riceboi,Mar 29 2006, 06:23 PM
I do have hondamanwill coming over to fix it for me. I already ordered and paid for the new oil pan at honda, it cost $300. Any chance they will let me return it, I know there is a restocking fee or something, but I would still save more money returning it. I'm going to ask tomorrow.
03-29-2006, 09:31 PM
#55
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Originally Posted by jhsunix,Mar 29 2006, 09:53 PM
Exactly how hard did you try to turn it?
I always imagined it'd be pretty darn hard to strip the bolt..
Either that or my arm's a noodle
I always imagined it'd be pretty darn hard to strip the bolt..
Either that or my arm's a noodle
03-30-2006, 01:05 AM
#56
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Originally Posted by Riceboi,Mar 28 2006, 12:32 PM
The bolt looks pretty messed up, I think I'm just going to go get another one.
It looks like it has an uneven metal shaving on it, it's hard to explain!
It looks like it has an uneven metal shaving on it, it's hard to explain!
03-30-2006, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver9k,Mar 28 2006, 02:57 PM
Ya, threads are screwed in the pan...pull the pan, get the threads helicoiled by a mechanic, get a new gasket, bolt the pan back on...put the new oil drain bolt back in, refill with oil and then check for leaks.
Everything should be good...
and no, don't drive it.
Have a friend take you with your screwed pan to a mechanic...and call Honda now to make sure you can get the gasket...while the mechanic is fixing your pan, go pick up the gasket.
Now, since I have never actually pulled the pan on this car, other more knowledgable people may correct me, I don't know if there is an actual gasket for the pan, or if they just use a silicon sealant? But if you call the dealer and they don't have a gasket for the S2k...you'll need some sort of oil pan gasket maker (silicon) and the mechanic can direct you were to get some and what to get.
Everything should be good...
and no, don't drive it.
Have a friend take you with your screwed pan to a mechanic...and call Honda now to make sure you can get the gasket...while the mechanic is fixing your pan, go pick up the gasket.
Now, since I have never actually pulled the pan on this car, other more knowledgable people may correct me, I don't know if there is an actual gasket for the pan, or if they just use a silicon sealant? But if you call the dealer and they don't have a gasket for the S2k...you'll need some sort of oil pan gasket maker (silicon) and the mechanic can direct you were to get some and what to get.
03-30-2006, 04:25 AM
#59
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Originally Posted by vAnt,Mar 28 2006, 08:02 PM
... Counter Clockwise would loosen things, and clockwise would tighten them. I have yet to find something that is the opposite (In daily life).
Regarding the oil pan replacement - I've replaced several when doing oil bolt upgrades, and it's a very straightforward procedure. There is no gasket to buy, but you will need a liquid sealant (Hondabond or aftermarket equivalent) to seal the pan to the block. As mentioned by Stoner_1 let it cure for at least 12 and preferably 24 hours before starting the car.
Faced with your situation, I'd remove and tap the existing pan for an oversized oil drain bolt. Though the diameter will be larger, make sure that the trhead pitch is similar to the OEM bolt. That saves money over replacing the pan and leaves you with machine threads holding in the oil drain bolt. While self-tapping drain bolts may work, I'd want to make sure the thread pitch and depth was close to OEM. The self-tapping replacement bolts that I have seen have a greater thread pitch which makes them slightly less secure than a bolt with finer pitch. Replacing the pan is certainly the best way to go, if it weren't for the price.
03-30-2006, 08:08 AM
#60
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Originally Posted by Stoner_1,Mar 30 2006, 02:05 AM
I know it's a small possibility, but he could of FOD'd out his out pan with some of the threading from the oil plug he just trashed... I'd suggest checking your oil and maybe the inside of the oil pan to make sure that you didn't leave anything inside!!!