Scigheras

You will need to use the VTEC pressure switch from your old engine as the JDM engines don't have it, or alternatively run a JDM ECU. However those don't come with an immobilizer (I think?) and will be limited to 180kph (unless it's modified). Engine will bolt up to any other S2000 gearbox just fine no issues there. They indeed are rated 10hp higher from factory, however if your not using the JDM ECU as well I don't think many of these 10 extra horses will be there. Also, the JDM engines have a higher compression ratio and will knock sooner on lower octane fuel so I would run them on RON 98 or better only.

One final personal remark: I have found used japanese engines to have screwed me over a lot less than used engines from 'western' sellers. From my small sample size it seems that people here are a lot less honest about what they are selling. But take this with a grain of salt, just my personal grieves with the past.

mhm4000

Thanks @Scigheras those kinds of details are really good to know.

Another question: since my last post I discovered and talked to John at InlinePro - seems they can rebuild the engine to stock for close to the same as I can buy a JDM motor. That seems to make whole lot more sense.....

B serious

I'd rather have a factory built engine.

I don't see many downsides to the JDM swap.

Or just find a good used engine on eBay. Nice and simple.

mhm4000

So, I totally don't disagree...but how do I know if its a good used engine? Wasnt ragged out, they kept up with the oil changes and levels, etc...? Even with JDM engines - was it in a drift car? Something else? That's what I'm trying to figure out - isn't it a crap shoot?

clio

In my opinion a good indicator (obviously not the be all and end all) is the condition of the valve cover. Low mileage engines from stock cars generally have good condition valve covers. The more the engine has been messed with/transplanted/modified the valve cover will usually look crap.
You're right though there is a level of risk to buying a used engine. Even if compression/leak down tests are good there's always a chance of something lurking.
Having said that I would choose a good used factory engine over a built engine. A built engine comes with risk too.

mhm4000

Sorry, Just saw this! Thanks!

mhm4000

So, for a number of reasons, I'm finally ready to deal with this - and I have another question:

TLDR:
About how much money can I expect to make from selling/parting out my existing 2001 pretty much stock black AP1(~180K miles) with a spun bearing? (see pics below)


Background:
- The car is pretty much a fully stock 2001 Berlinetta black, ~180K miles, was running great, decent compression, etc., and then I let the oil get low and spun a bearing (argh).
- Body/paint looks OK at 20 mph or at night, but has a lot of really little door dings, etc. Not ~great~, not bad. Interior is good, trunk liners look like new, etc.
- After all is said and done, It looks like it will cost me a minimum of $6500ish total (I hope) to replace the engine to stock.
- Its about the same cost to go with an InlinePro rebuild to stock (Cylinder head and short block build: complete disassembly, fix everything, valves, balanced, etc) + a new/used crank which they will supply, as the cost of a JDM (I'm in Texas, both will be installed by the guys at AutoSpec in Round Rock.
- InlinePro gives a 1 yr warranty. JDM's I've seen are 6 mos.
- I can spend $1.5 - $2K-ish more with the InlinePro guys and, on the short block they do their Inline Pro F24 Signature Series FRM (stock sleeves) short block build, and add about 50 HP without giving up the AP1 characteristics (I talked to another very knowledgeable/experienced owner on here (not referred to me by IP - he told me about them) who did that with them and raved about it)(sounds pretty spectacular to me).

The issue is $$$.

- I can afford the JDM or InlinePro rebuild to stock, but then I'm into the car for a total of about $11000 in financing (what is left on the original loan, plus more to fix it, just trust me)
- If I do the F24 build, that goes up. to $12.5K+. And that would be a LOT of fun.

OR

- I could buy a car in similar shape, probably with a lot less miles on it, (I'm looking at a 2000 with about 130K miles on the car and 65K on an AP2 engine that he installed, after he spun a bearing, for about $8100.
- which puts me at about $12.5K including the existing note
- and just sell/part out my current one.
- The $$ from which, when subtracted from that $12.5K equals......$What?.

The question is: About how much money can I expect to make from selling/parting out my existing 2001 black AP1 with a spun bearing? Could I come out ahead? By how much? Or would it be so close that its not worth it?

I would super appreciate any insight.... thanks much!





I took the stoopid black rubber paint off the wheels...

noodels

Wait until another second hand engine shows from a smashed car,got one with 60k miles for 2.5k UK pounds..

Billman250

In all of spun bearing cases I’ve seen, the cylinder head/cams/rockers etc showed 0 damage...you likely have a good head to work with.

mhm4000

Thanks, @Billman, that's good to hear.
Pardon my ignorance, but does that mean that I have other options to work with it than just swapping out a different used long block, and/or retaining more value to the parts from the current engine?
This is my daily driver (or it would be) so I'm not looking to do a project, I just need to get it back up and running as reliably and economically as possible.
Thanks