Need help! Transmission won’t go in to gear when on but when off it does.
04-07-2021, 06:47 AM
#11
I had this EXACT problem after installing a new clutch once. Turns out, the disc sent with the kit was a little bit too large in diameter and would not allow the clutch to disengage.
In a roundabout way that sounds like your problem. Could be hydrolic or mechanical. It sounds like you're narrowing that down at this point, so what I'll add is this; If everything hydrolic seems to be working alright then it is time to pull the transmission out and get that clutch out of there. If you're old clutch is in good shape then you can use it, but obviously the majority of the camp here would probably recommend just replacing it since this is something of a "major job" for most people.
Best of luck either way!
In a roundabout way that sounds like your problem. Could be hydrolic or mechanical. It sounds like you're narrowing that down at this point, so what I'll add is this; If everything hydrolic seems to be working alright then it is time to pull the transmission out and get that clutch out of there. If you're old clutch is in good shape then you can use it, but obviously the majority of the camp here would probably recommend just replacing it since this is something of a "major job" for most people.
Best of luck either way!
04-07-2021, 07:18 AM
#12
How did you assess the clutch on the new motor if you didn't disassemble it?
Agree with B serious. The failure mode on almost all aftermarket clutches for this car is a spring breaks free and jams up the works. This would produce the exact symptoms you are experiencing. Clutch isn't able to disengage.
This spring drop failure mode typically occurs around 20k miles. At that point, the clutch surface material is barely worn. So clutch face would still appear great.
Unless its a Honda disk, & Honda pp, and good condition release bearing guide, and cleaned and greased splines, adjusted clutch rod and air free lines with clean fluid, you will soon experience clutch disengagement issues.
Agree with B serious. The failure mode on almost all aftermarket clutches for this car is a spring breaks free and jams up the works. This would produce the exact symptoms you are experiencing. Clutch isn't able to disengage.
This spring drop failure mode typically occurs around 20k miles. At that point, the clutch surface material is barely worn. So clutch face would still appear great.
Unless its a Honda disk, & Honda pp, and good condition release bearing guide, and cleaned and greased splines, adjusted clutch rod and air free lines with clean fluid, you will soon experience clutch disengagement issues.
What kind of clutch was on the new engine?
If it didn't say "Honda" on it...its time to buy one that does say "Honda" on it.
The type of grease you use is also important. Honda HT Urea.
And a Honda throwout bearing.
And a Honda throwout bearing guide.
Should have you rolling smooth after that.
If it didn't say "Honda" on it...its time to buy one that does say "Honda" on it.
The type of grease you use is also important. Honda HT Urea.
And a Honda throwout bearing.
And a Honda throwout bearing guide.
Should have you rolling smooth after that.
I had this EXACT problem after installing a new clutch once. Turns out, the disc sent with the kit was a little bit too large in diameter and would not allow the clutch to disengage.
In a roundabout way that sounds like your problem. Could be hydrolic or mechanical. It sounds like you're narrowing that down at this point, so what I'll add is this; If everything hydrolic seems to be working alright then it is time to pull the transmission out and get that clutch out of there. If you're old clutch is in good shape then you can use it, but obviously the majority of the camp here would probably recommend just replacing it since this is something of a "major job" for most people.
Best of luck either way!
In a roundabout way that sounds like your problem. Could be hydrolic or mechanical. It sounds like you're narrowing that down at this point, so what I'll add is this; If everything hydrolic seems to be working alright then it is time to pull the transmission out and get that clutch out of there. If you're old clutch is in good shape then you can use it, but obviously the majority of the camp here would probably recommend just replacing it since this is something of a "major job" for most people.
Best of luck either way!
04-07-2021, 07:20 AM
#13
Thank you to all who were nice enough to reply on this thread! I'm glad to see fellow members helping each other out on here, FB groups are just bashers and novices.
Again thank you all!
Again thank you all!
04-07-2021, 08:22 AM
#14
Join Date: Oct 2000
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I already know some smart ass is going to say “take it to a mechanic”, but I want to cover all my bases before I get reamed by the mechanic bill.
However now the transmission won’t go in to get when it’s on. When I attempt to put it in 1st gear the car moves forward slightly.
!
However now the transmission won’t go in to get when it’s on. When I attempt to put it in 1st gear the car moves forward slightly.
!
04-07-2021, 08:29 AM
#15
But then I only joined fb to find used car parts for sale...
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