hondagirl0615

Alright, My '02 S2k decided to suck up water like a shop vac due to having cold air intake and the plastics removed. I bent and snapped a rod which gashed the cylinder wall. I have been trying to figure out the least expensive way to get my baby back up and running. I have purchased another block from Miami, but it had been set up for a turbo with reinforced cylinder walls and want not. It also has a lot of surface rust due to the previous owner leaving it outside for some ungodly reason. So I had the 'new' block honed and the cylinder walls look good, but the rest of it will need some work.

I do not have a turbo, nor do I have the money for a turbo right now. I went to a machine shop and they want to charge me $800 plus the cost of sleeves (which I don't have)for my oem block. Now I found out that depending on how deep the gash is on the cylinder wall, I may be able to have just that cylinder honed farther and replace that rod with a slightly bigger piston. If I go this route, will I be able to use the oem pistons for the remaining 3 cylinders and just have the one different? Or should I have the 'new' block's reinforced sleeves pressed out and oem one's pressed in and just replace the one rod?

I am so frustrated as to what to do, I have had the car for 7 years and now it is a driveway ornament. If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appriciate it!!!!!

Billman250

There is no such thing as an oem sleeve. The oem FRM liner is hardened particles impregnated into the aluminum block.

You can only bore the cylinder .025 (meaning .012 deep) oversize and still have the frm wall remaining. However, ALL cylinders must be equal and .025 over pistons may be big money.

If they sleeve your oem block, you will be left over with simple cast iron sleeves and no more FRM liner. I have not seen one single cast iron sleeve s2k go the distance. Please post if you have seen different.

I would be very weary of putting any money into a rusted motor. That motor was outside and rusting for one very good reason, it had no value to it's owner.

Have you exhausted all efforts to find a good running together engine? They are getting very rare.

I think you can still buy a brand new Honda bare block for under 2k. Keep that in mind if your crankshaft is good, there are tons of pistons to be had.

I have 60 or so of them.

Voodoo_S2K

What qualifies as going the distance?

iamxpl

one day ill be brave enough to try and actually put a motor together. is it hard?

Billman250

Go the distance=getting a sufficient/reasonable amount of miles for the money you spent.

A "built" motor should go the distance as a new engine (and will do so) if built correctly.

Is it hard? I believe it takes many years of practice and experience to do it correctly...to a point where you can confidently put a generous guarantee on it.

Most places you lose that guarantee the second you hand them your money, let alone get off the property.

Voodoo_S2K

I was asking a serious question, so not sure what prompted the need to explain the quality of your work and your work ethos.

Sufficient/reasonable is a fairly subjective term. I was thinking you had a xxx,xxx number in mind.

Billman250

Follow you now....little mix up.

A cast iron motor should go easy over 100k miles.

It seems the ones I have encountered are not getting past 10k without issues, at least with the F20C.

Voodoo_S2K

Oh that isn't good at all. Serious issues with the build if it can't get to 10k.

My Laskey low comp built motor made it about 70k before I spun a rod bearing badly. I ran it N/A the whole time, as I never got around to boosting it.

MM3Kwolik

To the OP, my buddy Chris Dornon has an AP1 engine which has been meticulously cared for up for sale. It can be found here> https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/105...ngine-9k-w00t/

He is willing to ship as well. May be your best option. Good Luck!

iamxpl

i think he answered your question and mine at the same time. i was asking him how hard it was to put a motor together.