Need CEL help
05-25-2012, 11:13 AM
#1
Need CEL help
I wound up with a 'P0122 Throttle Position Circuit Low Input' yesterday during normal street driving. I did notice on the way home that throttle response was different so this is clearly something I need to address (just turned off the light for now).
The TB on this car ('00 AP1) was replaced about ten years ago and as I recall there was a procedure to adjust the voltages but it doesn't seem that they should change over time.
Any experience or advice?
The TB on this car ('00 AP1) was replaced about ten years ago and as I recall there was a procedure to adjust the voltages but it doesn't seem that they should change over time.
Any experience or advice?
05-25-2012, 02:04 PM
#2
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There is no mention about adjusting.
Just meansuring.
Out of the service manual:
Check throttle position angle with scanner.
In my software its called SAE.TP
It should be between 6% (closed) and 90% (open)
Why it isn't 100% at fully open is something I've wondered about, anyway..
Switch ignition OFF.
Disconnect TP sensor.
Switch ignition ON.
Between pin 1 and 3 - to outer ones - of the cable connector should be around 5V
Wire colour GRN/YEL = pin 1 and YEL/BLU = pin 2.
TP sensor side:
Resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 (= middle one) should be 500-900 ohm with throttle closed.
Around 4500 ohm with throttle open.
OR THE OTHER WAY AROUND.
I know this sounds a bit silly but I just noticed an error in my service manual.
They mention throttle fully closed at both measurements.
Probably something got lost in translation.
And.. check all grounds.
Allthough the TP has a 3 pin connector so most likely uses no engine ground at all.
I hope this helps.
Just meansuring.
Out of the service manual:
Check throttle position angle with scanner.
In my software its called SAE.TP
It should be between 6% (closed) and 90% (open)
Why it isn't 100% at fully open is something I've wondered about, anyway..
Switch ignition OFF.
Disconnect TP sensor.
Switch ignition ON.
Between pin 1 and 3 - to outer ones - of the cable connector should be around 5V
Wire colour GRN/YEL = pin 1 and YEL/BLU = pin 2.
TP sensor side:
Resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 (= middle one) should be 500-900 ohm with throttle closed.
Around 4500 ohm with throttle open.
OR THE OTHER WAY AROUND.
I know this sounds a bit silly but I just noticed an error in my service manual.
They mention throttle fully closed at both measurements.
Probably something got lost in translation.
And.. check all grounds.
Allthough the TP has a 3 pin connector so most likely uses no engine ground at all.
I hope this helps.
05-25-2012, 05:04 PM
#3
There is no mention about adjusting.
Just meansuring.
Out of the service manual:
Check throttle position angle with scanner.
In my software its called SAE.TP
It should be between 6% (closed) and 90% (open)
Why it isn't 100% at fully open is something I've wondered about, anyway..
Switch ignition OFF.
Disconnect TP sensor.
Switch ignition ON.
Between pin 1 and 3 - to outer ones - of the cable connector should be around 5V
Wire colour GRN/YEL = pin 1 and YEL/BLU = pin 2.
TP sensor side:
Resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 (= middle one) should be 500-900 ohm with throttle closed.
Around 4500 ohm with throttle open.
OR THE OTHER WAY AROUND.
I know this sounds a bit silly but I just noticed an error in my service manual.
They mention throttle fully closed at both measurements.
Probably something got lost in translation.
And.. check all grounds.
Allthough the TP has a 3 pin connector so most likely uses no engine ground at all.
I hope this helps.
Just meansuring.
Out of the service manual:
Check throttle position angle with scanner.
In my software its called SAE.TP
It should be between 6% (closed) and 90% (open)
Why it isn't 100% at fully open is something I've wondered about, anyway..
Switch ignition OFF.
Disconnect TP sensor.
Switch ignition ON.
Between pin 1 and 3 - to outer ones - of the cable connector should be around 5V
Wire colour GRN/YEL = pin 1 and YEL/BLU = pin 2.
TP sensor side:
Resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 (= middle one) should be 500-900 ohm with throttle closed.
Around 4500 ohm with throttle open.
OR THE OTHER WAY AROUND.
I know this sounds a bit silly but I just noticed an error in my service manual.
They mention throttle fully closed at both measurements.
Probably something got lost in translation.
And.. check all grounds.
Allthough the TP has a 3 pin connector so most likely uses no engine ground at all.
I hope this helps.
I got a response quickly from Proflow (great service on an old part) who said I should look for 660 ohm with a closed throttle but suggested I may need a replacement if it reoccurs. I've reset the code and it works normally so I'll just drive it for now.
05-25-2012, 10:36 PM
#5
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https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/589...#entry13357892
Not trying to be a smarta$$ but I just typed TB position sensor in the search field in UTH.
Your post was #1
The link was #3
Not trying to be a smarta$$ but I just typed TB position sensor in the search field in UTH.
Your post was #1
The link was #3
05-26-2012, 08:17 AM
#6
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/589...#entry13357892
Not trying to be a smarta$$ but I just typed TB position sensor in the search field in UTH.
Your post was #1
The link was #3
Not trying to be a smarta$$ but I just typed TB position sensor in the search field in UTH.
Your post was #1
The link was #3
That is a great solution and post from S2KART four years ago. That is the direction I will go and will report back.
06-05-2012, 12:08 PM
#7
Update: tested the TBS and found it was marginal with only half the spec voltage in the closed position when the ambient temp is low.
Ordered a Omni-Power S2000 TPS Sensor ($64.00) and it works well and even gives a little smoother throttle response at low rpm.
Turns out this was easier for me since the pro-flow TB I have on the car already had replaced the TBS and screws so I was able to remove the sensor and replace without removing the TB and jacking with the tamper-proof screws.
Ordered a Omni-Power S2000 TPS Sensor ($64.00) and it works well and even gives a little smoother throttle response at low rpm.
Turns out this was easier for me since the pro-flow TB I have on the car already had replaced the TBS and screws so I was able to remove the sensor and replace without removing the TB and jacking with the tamper-proof screws.
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