Need AEM EMS Help!
#12
Do you have a timing light handy to check the AEM hasn't lots the base?
IIRC in the past a few people have been able to start using the Honda ECU when the AEM wouldn't. But the AEM would run fine once the car had warmed up slightly with the Honda ECU. Whether that'll work with the ITB's or not, I don't know - there's the vacuum tree so there's still a map signal.
The other thing to bear in mind is that the plugs are probably rather wet from the cranking, probably worth pulling them to dry out a bit while you figure out what to try.
If I was a betting man, my 2p's on the timing base having gone.
-Brian.
IIRC in the past a few people have been able to start using the Honda ECU when the AEM wouldn't. But the AEM would run fine once the car had warmed up slightly with the Honda ECU. Whether that'll work with the ITB's or not, I don't know - there's the vacuum tree so there's still a map signal.
The other thing to bear in mind is that the plugs are probably rather wet from the cranking, probably worth pulling them to dry out a bit while you figure out what to try.
If I was a betting man, my 2p's on the timing base having gone.
-Brian.
#13
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It's possible, especially in cold weather, that your battery voltage is sagging enough that the AEM ECU won't operate even though the engine seems to spin over fine. I had that problem when using a very small battery rather than the normal Honda unit.
Do you have your laptop connected while you're cranking? Watching what's happening will tell you if the ECU's still operating.
Good luck.
Do you have your laptop connected while you're cranking? Watching what's happening will tell you if the ECU's still operating.
Good luck.
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It's warmer here than it's been in a while. Plus he has a trickle charger connected to his battery. I also believe Dan has changed his battery from the honda OEM batter to a newer one from strauss or w/e made by Die Hard. The trickle charge should keep the battery at proper voltage so I dont think that's the issue. Plus if you read it, the car sputters while it's cranking.
#15
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definitely pull the plugs and check 'em -
I have the darndest time getting the car to start when the temp is cold - for what its worth, but the "swap it out with OEM thing" usually works just to get the engine warm (It even works with the 550 injectors I have). so the plugs may be fouled.
Fortunately the temps will be cold when UL is here. Maybe these woes will go away if we have a "cold weather starting party"
keep us posted.
I have the darndest time getting the car to start when the temp is cold - for what its worth, but the "swap it out with OEM thing" usually works just to get the engine warm (It even works with the 550 injectors I have). so the plugs may be fouled.
Fortunately the temps will be cold when UL is here. Maybe these woes will go away if we have a "cold weather starting party"
keep us posted.
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chris (cbj80) also provided me this warning worth heeding:
You need to be cautious when you have trouble starting the car. If you crank it too much and it's too rich to run, you can put so much fuel in it, that it can screw up the oil, and then your bearings and crank will get messed up....
You need to be cautious when you have trouble starting the car. If you crank it too much and it's too rich to run, you can put so much fuel in it, that it can screw up the oil, and then your bearings and crank will get messed up....
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Originally posted by jahwerx
chris (cbj80) also provided me this warning worth heeding:
You need to be cautious when you have trouble starting the car. If you crank it too much and it's too rich to run, you can put so much fuel in it, that it can screw up the oil, and then your bearings and crank will get messed up....
chris (cbj80) also provided me this warning worth heeding:
You need to be cautious when you have trouble starting the car. If you crank it too much and it's too rich to run, you can put so much fuel in it, that it can screw up the oil, and then your bearings and crank will get messed up....