DJT

I've heard from some that it's really not possible to re-glue the roll hoop garnish. Sadly, I don't have much choice. My car came with it already snapped open. At least one person reported that he had good luck with black silicone adhesive.

My garnish is totally separated (from the top all the way down to the sides). The sides near the convertible top mechanism are particularly hard to squeeze back together.

Yesterday I spent quite a bit of time prepping the surface and aligning a series of bar clamps so that I could (in theory) glue the sucker back. I decided to go with a general purpose polyurethane adhesive since I've had so much luck with it in the past for other projects.

So I glued, and clamped, and waited. Got up this morning all excited to see the results.

Crap. Absolute crap. Not only did the adhesive not hold. It looks horrible. So much so that I had to run a strip of black electrical tape over the seam just so I don't have to look at the messy glue. Thankfully I only did one side.

So now I'm back to the drawing board. I'm hoping someone can give me some solid advice. I doubt that black silicone will work for my application as it has less holding power than the poly adhesive I used. Plus, like I said, the roll hoop plastic seam is broken all the way from end to end (from the side on the top center tray to the side near the convertible top frame). The side nearest the latter requires considerable clamp pressure to squeeze back ... so I really doubt the silicone would work there.

Thinking of trying plastic epoxy. If not that, then maybe something else. I'd rather not spend money on another set of roll hoops (they seem a pain to install).

I am thinking of my own DIY type of S-Pod install, which might help keep the upper hoop portions together, but not the lower parts (with the largest seam gap) near the convertible top frame.

Man, this has totally ruined my day. It sucks when you spend a ton of time on a project and it a) doesn't work b) looks like crap and c) will require even more work to get right.

D

ahrmike

I used quick drying epoxy, the two stage ones. It works...but you have to be careful to not drop it on the rollhoops or it will stay in there.

me:
superglue gel, put a few dots to "hold" it while the epoxy sets.

apply epoxy inside roll hoops

Tie hoops together with tape/string/whatever.

wait 1 day..

it should hold at least for a year. One side broke apart again cuz my seat goes all the way up to it/vibrates it apart, but my passenger side is still good

Stratocaster

Buy new ones.

mister x

Since adhesives are hit or miss, have you considered mechanically joining the pieces? Maybe a clean rivet job or small hex head button bolts.

Either that or talk yourself into a Mugen roll bar.

jeallen

Update: this failed after about a month. :-(


>>>I tried several plastic glues, all failed. This worked:

Bugsy

The hoops are made of PP (polypropylene).
It takes some special stuff to get a lasting bond after the hotwire fusion is broken.
Do a google search on polypropylene glue or gluing.
Here's a link to a high tech chemical...

http://www.masterbond.com/bssp/bspolye.html

JohnsS2000

i have the same issue, stereo install. Good Info !!

mcsinc

has anyone tried model cement from Testors?

HarryD

I know I'm bumping an old thread, but I wanted to share some good news. Super glue doesn't work, nor does many of the other stuff, for split roll hoops. Most of these threads cover that.

However, rubber cement works nice and solid (follow the instructions, put it on the inside lip of the hoops, let it haze/dry for a few minutes, then join the hoops. Have a partner hold them together while you tape them tight with painters tape. Let dry for a few days before removing the tape).

Hopefully this will save people from having to drop money on new hoops. Cheers!

cosmomiller

You can also try this from Amazon. Personally I would clamp the thing together correctly and then attempt to heat "weld" it with a soldering iron.