Mystery fluid...can you guess?
#21
I've done a few clutch bleeds for guys here, including my own. For some strange reason, the clutch fluid in this car goes dark very early in its life. I noticed the fluid being quite dark before the first year was up. It has been noted that this does not affect the performance of the fluid since it's not a HIGH temp environment like the brake fluid is. However, I still don't like it (esthetically) and I prefer to change it out around the one year mark and keep an eye on it thereafter. Many have mentioned that their clutches (shifting) function so much better after the dark stuff has been flushed and replaced.
I may stand corrected but I think the color leaches out of the seals of the plungers and cylinders. Upon inspection, it almost looks like soot that lines the reservoir.
I may stand corrected but I think the color leaches out of the seals of the plungers and cylinders. Upon inspection, it almost looks like soot that lines the reservoir.
#24
Originally posted by Mannn
I have checked the users manual... there is no sign of when I should change the clutch fluid... should i be worry?
I have checked the users manual... there is no sign of when I should change the clutch fluid... should i be worry?
#25
Registered User
Discoloration can occur from oxidative reactance of the additives, but more likely from benign contaminants left over from assembly. I'll betcha that your next change will be much lighter in color.
The SVT Cobra came with the yellow coolant (BASF type G5 glysantin based), and within two weeks it was a brownish gold. I knew it had not deteriorated, and ran an analysis looking for engine oil, but found only some benign petro distillates likely used in assembly.
I would do the clutch fluid and the brake fluid every two years to maintain highest performance and long life.
A simple but effective stop gap is to use a clean kitchen baster and remove a fair amount of fluid from both the brake and clutch reservoirs. Both fluids slowly migrate through the system over time. About every month or so is an effective measure, easy to do, and cheap - just be careful about spilling the fluid on any painted surface. And do not drain so much that you expose the system to air.
BTW, if Honda calls for DOT4, I suggest sticking with it - DOT4 and DOT3 have different additives, and can affect seals if subsituted one for the other. I thought Honda called for DOT3, but that is a memory from 1995 for my NSX.
The SVT Cobra came with the yellow coolant (BASF type G5 glysantin based), and within two weeks it was a brownish gold. I knew it had not deteriorated, and ran an analysis looking for engine oil, but found only some benign petro distillates likely used in assembly.
I would do the clutch fluid and the brake fluid every two years to maintain highest performance and long life.
A simple but effective stop gap is to use a clean kitchen baster and remove a fair amount of fluid from both the brake and clutch reservoirs. Both fluids slowly migrate through the system over time. About every month or so is an effective measure, easy to do, and cheap - just be careful about spilling the fluid on any painted surface. And do not drain so much that you expose the system to air.
BTW, if Honda calls for DOT4, I suggest sticking with it - DOT4 and DOT3 have different additives, and can affect seals if subsituted one for the other. I thought Honda called for DOT3, but that is a memory from 1995 for my NSX.
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