dyhppy

i understand. let's say that the metal ball isn't seated properly, then what would happen? let me reiterate that when i try to start the car, there is no shuddering, just that all of the lights on the dash glow on and off and then turn off, which is consistent with low battery. but jumping it yielded the same result.

thank you

i'm really eager for honda to look at it.

the only thing i can add to the how to is people who dont have a dental pick can use a really sharp nail.

how DID you figure out that the slave was different thank the previous years' and how did you know it was causing the delay?

SIIK2NR

Although I discovered the delay on my own.....I was not the founder of this modification.

The title of my thread "tribute to Elistan and billman250" is because I am giving the credit for finding out what was causing it and how to remove it.

I simply used their info, added my own pics and inputs to create a step by step thread on "how to" for those with the same problem and how they could fix it.

That's what I love about this forum.... I've owned my car less than a year and the members on this forum have helped me out more times than I can count.

It's my way of contributing back....

Roadster_1

I'm going to perform this mod...but, I've got a couple of questions. It's a little unclear to me where to insert the allen wrench mentioned to push out the unwanted delay mechanism. Where the bango bolt was attached to the slave? Also, I *think* someone mentioned earlier something about a different clutch level engagement for the pedal after performing this mod. Anyone else experience this?

Great write up and thanks for the help...

SIIK2NR

You "push" from the exact OPPOSITE side that you pull the snap ring and plug from.

Once you remove the rubber cap, snap ring and plug you will see the delay unit. You can't pull them from the same side so you have to push from the opposite side.

So........YES......you push from the bango bolt side.

As for the clutch engagement point.......it felt a slight lower the first day after the mod but that was due to the clutch lines not yet fully pressurizing. Now that it's been a week or so......it feels the same.....just a lot more solid....

Good luck..

dyhppy

honda had a hard time figuring it out today. all that has been found is that something is wrong with the car's starter and they ordered a new one. siik, can you think of anyway that the starter could be affected by this mod AT ALL, REMOTELY? could i have dripped fluid on the wrong spot or knocked something because i didn't touch ANYTHING besides the slave unit?

thnx

Cyclon36

I doubt the mod had anything to do with the starter. It was just coincidence that it failed the same time you modded the cylinder. If you're car is under warranty then don't worry about it and definitely don't tell the dealer you did they mod. They might try to pin something on you and make you pay for whatever. They will never check inside and as long as it appears stock, you're golden.

SIIK2NR

dyhppy

honda put the new starter in and it still didn't start. so it looks like nothing was wrong with the starter. is it possible to break the part that the slave touches that connects with the clutch/tranny? is it possible that something could be wrong with the slave?

SIIK2NR

Does the car start in neutral?

I think when you put it back on you did not seat it right.... You better get under the car and check it or hint to honda so they'll check it.

dyhppy

i just found a washer on the floor where the car was when we were working on it. it's about the size of a dime. any idea where it would come from relating to the slave/clutch assembly and the car starting problem?

i made sure the greased ball was seated properly when i put it back together.