SIIK2NR

Sounds like you should get under the car and bleed the line a few more times using the bleeder valve and a helper to push the clutch. The pedal should be really firm...

Tim

unscathed

Thanks... I'll try it again...

from what you guys are saying, I shouldn't even bother reinstalling the slave cylinder and just redo the bleeding?

cuz that'd be a lot easier...

SIIK2NR

If you were able to get pressure on the clutch the first time then the slave cylinder is already aligned to the clutch fork and there is no need to take it out.

Just bleed the clutch some more doing which ever method you prefer. Just don't lift the clutch when the bleed is open as it will suck air back into the line.

Tim

unscathed

Awesome... thanks again!

PilotKD

The pedal coming up halfway means there's some air left in the system. Did you have another person helping you bleed it? Unless you've got a SpeedBleeder on there, you really need someone to help. I had my wife get in the car with the car about 2 feet in the air on a flatbed lift so I could get under it with a crawler. I probably bled mine more than I had to. I almost went through a whole bottle of brake fluid just to flush it out good and make sure the pedal was as firm as could be. During bleeding, when your helper pushes the pedal down after you crack the valve open, the pedal will remain on the floor after closing the valve. You will then pull it back up with your hand and it will work normally from then on until you repeat this process. I think I did it about 8 times just to make sure everything was good to go.

villain2000

I just had Hardtopguy swap in an AP1 slave. Works like a charm.

Project22a

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=34328

Would these picks work? Which of those in the set would be used? I'm guessing it's the 45 degree angled one.

terahertz

those picks look fine, however its just whether or not you can get the ring out with them. i had a set similar but without the green handles and it took me an hour and a half of scraping and fiddling until it finally caught underneath the ring.

PilotKD

Yeah, I bought some cheap picks thinking they'd do the job and I actually dulled them down trying to pry the damn thing out. I then borrowed a "good" one and I didn't have any luck with that one either.

I recommend drilling a hole if you're not concerned about Honda potentially finding it if you had to bring it in for clutch slave cylinder related service. It's the risk you've gotta take. I drilled the small hole on the back side of the valve that faces the tranny so you can't see it without taking the cylinder off completely. I then inserted a small, flathead screwdriver into the hole and was able to pop the ring out.

unscathed

UPDATE:

I rebled the clutch... the only thing I did differently this time was when my friend stepped on the clutch and held it, I saw the solid stream of brake fluid draining and I shut the valve immediately instead of sitting there and watching like an idiot.

Clutch works just fine now and the S is pure now!

Great mod!

Costs:
4 piece pick set - $7.00 (the Sears cashier looked at me like I was going to reinact scenes from Hostel or something... "whatchu gonna do with those, boy?")
Ratchet set - $20 (can't believe I didn't buy a set for this long... I guess I can stop stealing my roommate's ratchet set now)
Funnel - $1.50
1/4" Tubing - $1.50
Brake Fluid - $2.00
Car Lift and Stands - $25

The most expensive costs of this mod were for the tools which I get to keep to use on other projects. All in all... not too bad!