sui_generis

i did this mod about a week ago. it feels better, but i still feel the clutch is a bit high.

how hard is it to adjust the clutch engagement point, and what's the general procedure?

R11

No, all the running gear is stock. It's been there since day one (22K ago now). It's very minor and most people probably wouldn't even notice it. I tend to be pretty in tune with my machines and notice every little thing though.


ron

campbuds

I think i missed something. what salve cylinder did you replace the oem one with?

Intrepid175

The '04 and newer cars have a delay valve in the clutch slave cylinder. The slave cylinder itself can be replaced with one from the '00-'03 models. I think there's some minor modification that has to be done for that but I could be wrong.

The cheaper way to get around this is to simply remove the delay valve from the slave cylinder. There have been "many" conversations on how to do that.

Drive Safe,
Steve R.

kfar09

Ok, this is a great writeup and I'm getting ready to do this in 2 weeks. I just had one question on bleeding the clutch.

Once everything is back on and its time to bleed, you pump the clutch (by hand I'm assuming) 10 times or until firm. Leave in the down position.

Undo bleeder and let a little fluid squirt out, close bleeder.

Pump again(leave in down position) and release bleeder for some more to squirt out, close again.

All this is done while making sure the fluid level doesn't get too low.

Now say you pump again and it feels firm. Now you get under by the valve and right when you open it, have a friend push the clutch in a hold it. A steady stream should appear.. then close the valve.

I'm assuming you just pump the clutch until it is firm again (or do you just pull it up to the UP POSITION one time?), top off the fluid, and you should be good to go? Sorry if this is a dumb question.

SIIK2NR

The first hand pumps will be very light and the clutch will need to be manually lifted up because of the lack of pressure. Stop in the down position and open the bleeder.. It will fizzle... close the bleeder.

Repeat the process. During this process the clutch will begin to get firm....and then VERY firm where the clutch will now need to be HELD in the down position as it's under pressure. Open the bleeder as you will see fluid release. CLose the bleeder.

Now that the bleeder is closed when you release/lift the clutch it will spring up and stay up on it's own.

Now you can open the bleeder and push the clutch to the floor with one smooth push then keep it down. This will force a solid stream of fluid out of the line and ensure all the air is out. Close the bleeder immediately. You are done or you can repeat this process till you see solid stream.

**note - the purpose of the the rapid pumps early on is to build up a little pressure. If you simply open bleed, push clutch, close bleed, lift clutch..etc...etc... in the EARLY stages it will take forever to build pressure. So in essence.... rapid pumping simply speeds up the process..

Tim

R11

I just bled mine by myself. After I pulled the line off the slave I left it dangling over the oil pan, took the cap off the master cylinder reservoir and pushed the pedal to the floor. I left it like that and let all the old dirty fluid drain through the line while I removed the valve from the slave and put it back on. After hooking the line back up I refilled the master and opened the bleeder valve and let it run some more from there until I was getting nice clean fluid. Then I closed the valve, pumped the pedal a few times to get any trapped bubbles out of the master cylinder and drained a bit more from the bleeder to make sure all the air was out of the line/cylinders. Gravity pushes everything downhill and out so there's not much need for a lot of pumping really. Just need to keep an eye on the master reservoir to make sure it doesn't get too low after the initial draining/refill.


ron

ChaseVarnado

Will this work on MY06?

Intrepid175

So far, with all the information on the changes that were made to the '06 models, I don't remember reading about any significant change to the clutch systems.

Based on that, I'd have to say, "probably!"

Drive Safe,
Steve R.

kfar09

Thanks for the info SIIK2NR, that was a great description!