VTEC_junky

Man....I bet that is what it is.....I never go much over 8500RPS but when i shift .....it off the throttle in the clutch shift ....let out clutch and hammer down. Very fast though....Very little drop in rpm...dang!
gonna try this next time. dude if this works...alll praise to YOU.....saved me a bundle.

ses2k

Thanks for all the responses guys. I'll have to try some of the methods. When I'm in need of a new clutch, a lighter flywheel is definitely going in. I suppose the AP1 flywheel will help alleviate the problem? Does the OEM pressure plate suffice or should it be replaced with an aftermarket one?

japhethwar

Easy fix for you. comp clutch stage 4 and 11lb flywheel. no more slippage guaranteed. Best mod i've done.

VTEC_junky

just to update. drove for the last couple of days and letting the rpms drop below 6000 did the trick.ty...ty...ty... car pulls great. no mor slip

Saki GT

This issue is the heavy flywheel. Removing the CDV will do nothing but allow the clutch to slip longer, even though clutch action will "fell" better. The fix is a stronger pressure plate that can grab that 22 lb flywheel, or an AP1 14 lb flywheel.

The ACT PP is the popular choice to fix this in AP2s. It grabs at roughly twice the force of OEM. Upgrade the PP and you may never care about the CDV.

Saki GT

It does, because the CDV is just a damper. Its purpose is to reduce driveline shock, not improve clutch hookup. It applies clutch engagement at a steady, consistent rate.

Saki GT

And here is the proof that the CDV is not the culprit to high rpm shifting slippage. AP1 cylinder has no CDV, but you still get the slippage because Honda never upgraded the PP when it put in the heavier flywheel.

The best option when stock is simply to shift slower. Shifting slower doesn't really slow the car much, and allows you to get back on the power without burning up your clutch disk since it allows the flywheel to slow enough that the pp can grab and hook up.

The real solution is to replace the OEM pressure plate with a stronger unit that can handle the AP2 flywheel. This will give you the same - I call it German - character the AP2 has when shifting with a much better hookup response.

If you replace the flywheel with a lighter unit you'll have to work harder to keep rpms up than when stock - ie it will feel more like driving an AP1.

Going to a super light flywheel, super aggressive clutch, and strong pp is overkill imo. It makes the S2000 unpleasant to drive on the street.

Saki GT

First, you have an AP1 - no CDV. Second, you have an old car, the clutch is most likely going out, which is why you need to wait for rpm to drop. Third, your shifting technique sounds bad. Focus more on clean shifting rather than jerking the shifter around as fast as you can, and you won't have to wait for rpm to drop and still have a much better experience with shifts.

When you have slip and it seems to get better over a period of days, that is because you glassed your clutch on a bad shift, and glazed it over. Normal driving can scrub some of that off and eventually the slip will be less, but you're driving style is killing the clutch over time.

Just to recap:

CDV - prevents driveline shock. Removing it will improve feel at the expense of protecting the driveline, but little else. It will not remove driveline slip.

AP2 flywheel - 22 lb, mated to a pressure plate originally designed for a 14 lb flywheel. Gives the AP2 a heavier feel vs the go kart-esque feel in the AP1.

PP - stock is not firm enough to stop the heavier flywheel of the AP2. ACT PP is an upgraded OEM and rectifies this issue. (twice the gripping force vs roughly twice the flywheel weight AP1 to AP2)

ses2k

[QUOTE=Saki GT,Apr 11 2010, 08:22 PM] This issue is the heavy flywheel.