My s2k seems to be an anomaly
#21
Man....I bet that is what it is.....I never go much over 8500RPS but when i shift .....it off the throttle in the clutch shift ....let out clutch and hammer down. Very fast though....Very little drop in rpm...dang!
gonna try this next time. dude if this works...alll praise to YOU.....saved me a bundle.
gonna try this next time. dude if this works...alll praise to YOU.....saved me a bundle.
#22
Thanks for all the responses guys. I'll have to try some of the methods. When I'm in need of a new clutch, a lighter flywheel is definitely going in. I suppose the AP1 flywheel will help alleviate the problem? Does the OEM pressure plate suffice or should it be replaced with an aftermarket one?
#25
Moderator
This issue is the heavy flywheel. Removing the CDV will do nothing but allow the clutch to slip longer, even though clutch action will "fell" better. The fix is a stronger pressure plate that can grab that 22 lb flywheel, or an AP1 14 lb flywheel.
The ACT PP is the popular choice to fix this in AP2s. It grabs at roughly twice the force of OEM. Upgrade the PP and you may never care about the CDV.
The ACT PP is the popular choice to fix this in AP2s. It grabs at roughly twice the force of OEM. Upgrade the PP and you may never care about the CDV.
#26
Moderator
Originally Posted by ans2k,Apr 7 2010, 05:06 PM
but i hear that if u do the CDV delete, it causes more slippage
#27
Moderator
Originally Posted by spets,Apr 7 2010, 06:46 PM
To the OP:
I also experience this issue during HPDEs, and I have an AP2 with an AP1 clutch slave cylinder.
The stock pressure plate and heavy ass flywheel keep the clutch from grabbing quickly enough. You'll need to give it a pause after shifting before flooring the gas.
I also experience this issue during HPDEs, and I have an AP2 with an AP1 clutch slave cylinder.
The stock pressure plate and heavy ass flywheel keep the clutch from grabbing quickly enough. You'll need to give it a pause after shifting before flooring the gas.
The best option when stock is simply to shift slower. Shifting slower doesn't really slow the car much, and allows you to get back on the power without burning up your clutch disk since it allows the flywheel to slow enough that the pp can grab and hook up.
The real solution is to replace the OEM pressure plate with a stronger unit that can handle the AP2 flywheel. This will give you the same - I call it German - character the AP2 has when shifting with a much better hookup response.
If you replace the flywheel with a lighter unit you'll have to work harder to keep rpms up than when stock - ie it will feel more like driving an AP1.
Going to a super light flywheel, super aggressive clutch, and strong pp is overkill imo. It makes the S2000 unpleasant to drive on the street.
#28
Moderator
Originally Posted by VTEC_junky,Apr 11 2010, 11:43 PM
just to update. drove for the last couple of days and letting the rpms drop below 6000 did the trick.ty...ty...ty... car pulls great. no mor slip
When you have slip and it seems to get better over a period of days, that is because you glassed your clutch on a bad shift, and glazed it over. Normal driving can scrub some of that off and eventually the slip will be less, but you're driving style is killing the clutch over time.
Just to recap:
CDV - prevents driveline shock. Removing it will improve feel at the expense of protecting the driveline, but little else. It will not remove driveline slip.
AP2 flywheel - 22 lb, mated to a pressure plate originally designed for a 14 lb flywheel. Gives the AP2 a heavier feel vs the go kart-esque feel in the AP1.
PP - stock is not firm enough to stop the heavier flywheel of the AP2. ACT PP is an upgraded OEM and rectifies this issue. (twice the gripping force vs roughly twice the flywheel weight AP1 to AP2)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post