My new S2K shut off while driving, won't start now.
02-14-2015, 06:37 PM
#32
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It's not uncommon for the bendix at the end of the starter to get stuck on the flywheel keeping the motor from spinning. In fact, in my shop before we condem any motor as being seized, we make sure we spin the motor with the starter removed and also check all the teeth on the flywheel. Also with the starter or even the slave cylinder removed you can inspect and see if any part of the clutch has broken off and jammed itself to the flywheel. I really doubt you have any engine damage and I bet that car was traded in for an intermittent no start and it just so happened that the condition has gotten worse. The things I've mentioned are worth checking before condemning the powertrain and you might even be able to get your money back from the dealer for a misdiagnosis. I hope this helps you.
02-14-2015, 06:40 PM
#33
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Thank you. I'm gonna buy an extended warranty and am hoping to make it from Amarillo to dallas and gonna take it to a shop of a local s2ki member.
02-15-2015, 08:31 AM
#34
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An extended warranty is not going to be retroactive.
I agree with S2K1st on starter check, and possible history on the car.
Having a trusted independent shop check it is a good idea. And do a full check. Don't stop at the first fault found.
Things already suggested:
Starter and starter solenoid plus electrical connections to starter, both the "signal" wire and main power supply cable. Your early video of weak starting could have been a starter related issue. (But starter seems unlikely to cause a noise that depends on clutch position.)
Heck, is the starter bolted on tightly?
Evidence of starter and flywheel teeth jamming or starter staying engaged after you release the button.
Clutch throwout bearing, linkage to throwout bearing inside bell housing. The noise with clutch depressed/not depressed described later in thread is classic for bad throwout bearing. I suppose it could also be related to pressure plate.
I wouldn't rule out the battery either. When they store tested the battery did they take it inside to do a load test? If so fine.
But if not, I have seen plenty of almost failing batteries seem to charge up fine, hold voltage, and run accessories, but fail to provide high current to the starter.
Random thoughts: The starter is easier to check than the throwout bearing.
The magic pop could be starter breaking free, or throwout bearing breaking free.
One solution to releasing a jammed stater is hit it with a hammer. Works on big V-8's and little tractor diesels anyway.
With manual transmission, rocking the car in gear can do it too.
The S2000 starter is not the most torquey one I have encountered. Doesn't spin the engine very fast.
Something failing after a delay can occur from careless repairs, specifically improperly torqued bolts working loose. I usually do my own work, but when done by others I have had exhaust manifolds work loose and begin to leak. I also have had a flywheel work loose after automatic transmission repair. These are actual examples. A theoretical one is that if the transmission was dropped for clutch disk replacement, that means the throwout bearing, clutch linkage, pressure plate and starter were all removed, then reinstalled.
What specific person drove the car from Amarillo to Dallas? Someone who answered a craigslist ad? Was there a problem on the trip?
I agree with S2K1st on starter check, and possible history on the car.
Having a trusted independent shop check it is a good idea. And do a full check. Don't stop at the first fault found.
Things already suggested:
Starter and starter solenoid plus electrical connections to starter, both the "signal" wire and main power supply cable. Your early video of weak starting could have been a starter related issue. (But starter seems unlikely to cause a noise that depends on clutch position.)
Heck, is the starter bolted on tightly?
Evidence of starter and flywheel teeth jamming or starter staying engaged after you release the button.
Clutch throwout bearing, linkage to throwout bearing inside bell housing. The noise with clutch depressed/not depressed described later in thread is classic for bad throwout bearing. I suppose it could also be related to pressure plate.
I wouldn't rule out the battery either. When they store tested the battery did they take it inside to do a load test? If so fine.
But if not, I have seen plenty of almost failing batteries seem to charge up fine, hold voltage, and run accessories, but fail to provide high current to the starter.
Random thoughts: The starter is easier to check than the throwout bearing.
The magic pop could be starter breaking free, or throwout bearing breaking free.
One solution to releasing a jammed stater is hit it with a hammer. Works on big V-8's and little tractor diesels anyway.
With manual transmission, rocking the car in gear can do it too.
The S2000 starter is not the most torquey one I have encountered. Doesn't spin the engine very fast.
Something failing after a delay can occur from careless repairs, specifically improperly torqued bolts working loose. I usually do my own work, but when done by others I have had exhaust manifolds work loose and begin to leak. I also have had a flywheel work loose after automatic transmission repair. These are actual examples. A theoretical one is that if the transmission was dropped for clutch disk replacement, that means the throwout bearing, clutch linkage, pressure plate and starter were all removed, then reinstalled.
What specific person drove the car from Amarillo to Dallas? Someone who answered a craigslist ad? Was there a problem on the trip?
02-15-2015, 09:40 AM
#35
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A few weeks later, the engine went south. I purchased the car and fixed it. Entire short block was junk, as the thrust surface was shredded.
Check the camwheel bolt, be sure its not backing out.
02-15-2015, 09:42 AM
#36
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I would also check the oil pressure, and amount of crankshaft thrust and report back. I believe the crankshaft thrust bearing can wedge the crank against the block, then be freed up. This is the pop noise.
Also note any vibration that may be coming up through the clutch pedal while it is depressed, evidence of a thrust bearing ready to destroy the entire engine.
Also note any vibration that may be coming up through the clutch pedal while it is depressed, evidence of a thrust bearing ready to destroy the entire engine.
02-15-2015, 12:37 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by JeffForSale!' timestamp='1423894414' post='23505641
When the tech got the car, he put a wrench on the crank bolt and put some force on it and claims he heard a pop. The engine then spun freely. With everything bolted back on, it fired right up and ran just like any other S2000.
A few weeks later, the engine went south. I purchased the car and fixed it. Entire short block was junk, as the thrust surface was shredded.
Check the camwheel bolt, be sure its not backing out.
02-15-2015, 02:32 PM
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I would also check the oil pressure, and amount of crankshaft thrust and report back. I believe the crankshaft thrust bearing can wedge the crank against the block, then be freed up. This is the pop noise.
Also note any vibration that may be coming up through the clutch pedal while it is depressed, evidence of a thrust bearing ready to destroy the entire engine.
Also note any vibration that may be coming up through the clutch pedal while it is depressed, evidence of a thrust bearing ready to destroy the entire engine.
02-16-2015, 03:43 AM
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I would also check the oil pressure, and amount of crankshaft thrust and report back. I believe the crankshaft thrust bearing can wedge the crank against the block, then be freed up. This is the pop noise.
Also note any vibration that may be coming up through the clutch pedal while it is depressed, evidence of a thrust bearing ready to destroy the entire engine.
Also note any vibration that may be coming up through the clutch pedal while it is depressed, evidence of a thrust bearing ready to destroy the entire engine.
Do you know the cause of this? What are my chances of having warranty cover it?