My new S2K shut off while driving, won't start now.
01-26-2015, 03:12 PM
#21
I would remove plugs and then attempt to turn over engine, if it is still seized then you can bet on having some kind of mechanical failure. The first link to youtube Vid (start up cold) sounded like shot crank bearings. Perhaps the bearing sheered and is lodged in your crankshaft? Let us know the specific failure please, a great learning experience for all!
Chris Brewer
Chris Brewer
01-27-2015, 07:38 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Murphy, TX
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would remove plugs and then attempt to turn over engine, if it is still seized then you can bet on having some kind of mechanical failure. The first link to youtube Vid (start up cold) sounded like shot crank bearings. Perhaps the bearing sheered and is lodged in your crankshaft? Let us know the specific failure please, a great learning experience for all!
Chris Brewer
Chris Brewer
01-27-2015, 08:38 AM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Murphy, TX
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
they said I need a new engine
all he knows is the engine is locked up and I need a new engine
$11,500
I asked for more information, waiting for a call back.
all he knows is the engine is locked up and I need a new engine
$11,500
I asked for more information, waiting for a call back.
01-27-2015, 09:03 AM
#24
$11,500 for an overhaul? Wow! Maybe, it's best to look for a replacement, good running, used engine?
Just a thought. Good luck!
Just a thought. Good luck!
01-27-2015, 09:07 AM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Murphy, TX
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just watched your videos and I think you got bent/broken rod(s). My buddy's 2007 did the same thing as we were trying figure out why the engine wouldn't turn. Then I tried Turing the engine by hand and it's wouldnt move at all. He was just driving normally and the engine Just shut off. The oil level was fine and his s2k only had 47k miles on it. It cost him like 10k+ but he rebuilt the engine and boosted it.
On a side note.. This problem seems to be getting common on low milage 2007 s2k's. This is like the 3rd-4th 07 s2k that it has happened to. It's more common among European s2k's. I don't know what Honda did with the 2007 s2k engines. But they must have changed something Or used a lower quality part...
On a side note.. This problem seems to be getting common on low milage 2007 s2k's. This is like the 3rd-4th 07 s2k that it has happened to. It's more common among European s2k's. I don't know what Honda did with the 2007 s2k engines. But they must have changed something Or used a lower quality part...
01-27-2015, 09:08 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Murphy, TX
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't know it was just a mechanical failure. The oil level was good and it was not overfilled, so that ruled out the possibly of the engine sucking up oil and hydro locking it. I searched around a bit to see what would cause this issue. I found a few threads of the same problem happening to other people. All were low mileage 2007 s2k's...
02-13-2015, 09:13 PM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm updating this thread for Geo since his car is currently in my garage.
Brown Honda offered to cut Geo a deal because he had purchased the car there. They told him they'd swap in the engine for $10k and give him a loaner, so he went for it and had them tow the car 350 miles back to Amarillo.
When the tech got the car, he put a wrench on the crank bolt and put some force on it and claims he heard a pop. The engine then spun freely. With everything bolted back on, it fired right up and ran just like any other S2000. The dealership put 100 miles on the car and swears that every thing is fine. The car just magically fixed itself.
They still charged him $600 for "fixing" it. They have no idea what was wrong or how they fixed it, but they happily took his money. Dude, I can't believe they made you paid them to drive your car 100 miles.
When he showed up in my garage, we took it for a spin and it felt fine. The clutch feels extremely soft compared to my ap1, and the engagement pointed seemed inconsistent at one point during the drive. But other than that, the car drove just fine. We parked it in my driveway, had dinner, came back, and the car started making a real weird sound.
With the clutch depressed, there was a loud whirring sound coming from underneath the car. It went away with the clutch pedal up. If you depressed the clutch again, it came back. Do you guys think something in the clutch is what jammed the engine the first time around? The sound went away after turning the car off and starting it back up.
I checked and the master cylinder has the typical leak (only 42k miles!!), but it wasn't low on fluid. Could that really be the culprit? Or just part of a bigger problem with the clutch system?
Brown Honda offered to cut Geo a deal because he had purchased the car there. They told him they'd swap in the engine for $10k and give him a loaner, so he went for it and had them tow the car 350 miles back to Amarillo.
When the tech got the car, he put a wrench on the crank bolt and put some force on it and claims he heard a pop. The engine then spun freely. With everything bolted back on, it fired right up and ran just like any other S2000. The dealership put 100 miles on the car and swears that every thing is fine. The car just magically fixed itself.
They still charged him $600 for "fixing" it. They have no idea what was wrong or how they fixed it, but they happily took his money. Dude, I can't believe they made you paid them to drive your car 100 miles.
When he showed up in my garage, we took it for a spin and it felt fine. The clutch feels extremely soft compared to my ap1, and the engagement pointed seemed inconsistent at one point during the drive. But other than that, the car drove just fine. We parked it in my driveway, had dinner, came back, and the car started making a real weird sound.
With the clutch depressed, there was a loud whirring sound coming from underneath the car. It went away with the clutch pedal up. If you depressed the clutch again, it came back. Do you guys think something in the clutch is what jammed the engine the first time around? The sound went away after turning the car off and starting it back up.
I checked and the master cylinder has the typical leak (only 42k miles!!), but it wasn't low on fluid. Could that really be the culprit? Or just part of a bigger problem with the clutch system?
02-14-2015, 06:33 AM
#29
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: 12m SW of Glen Rose, Tx
Posts: 986
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
7 Posts
With the clutch depressed, there was a loud whirring sound coming from underneath the car. It went away with the clutch pedal up. If you depressed the clutch again, it came back. Do you guys think something in the clutch is what jammed the engine the first time around? The sound went away after turning the car off and starting it back up.
If the throwout bearing was jammed at some point, it could resist the engine turning, but only if the transmission was in gear. And then it would try to turn the rear wheels which you would probably notice. If in neutral, clutch engagement jammed would just spin some of the gears in the box, which does not offer much resistance.
But what I don't understand is leaving the dealer and paying without insisting they explain what was "magically" fixed or what popped. Without that, they cannot say that they know that it's fixed. A problem may be intermittent, but that just means when it goes away it will come back. Nothing fixes itself.