nicholasbartleet

Is there any logical reason that you can think of why this wouldn't have become evident from day one of having the new engine in there?

Thanks so much for your help with this.

Stratocaster

Temp? I assume the temp has changed over the time you have had the car running?

nicholasbartleet

Yeah thats true. The engine was fitted in the winter and it was cold. Its warm now.

nicholasbartleet

ARGHHHHHHH!!!!!

Thanks again everyone for your help.

This is so frustrating. So this morning i removed the Air pump fuse to disable it. I started the car. Engine runs for 3 or 4 seconds then click click click. While it clicks, the engine bucks a little and i smell the strong petrol smell. It also starts hunting a little.

The air pump did not come on (which was good). I then checked out where Stratocaster, mentioned there being a plate for the sec air pump and i have one on my engine. It runs along the top of the exhaust manifold and is bolted on. I think the euro engines may have had the same head.

What should i do. Is there a computer at Honda that may help diagnose this. Its so frustrating because i only have like a few seconds every day to test it, then it runs fine for the rest of the day.

Thanks again to everyone who has helped so far

nicholasbartleet

If this is only happening in the morning it must be oil related surely. That would mean the problem only exists first thing before everything gets lubricated.

That reminds me that just after this problem started, my engine dumped all its oil over the exhaust manifold from an oil filter that was dented by the guys that fitted the engine. Becuase it was obviously dented and the car was not run with no oil (it was stationary and i turned the ignition off straight away) i didn't mention it because i thought it would confuse matters.

nicholasbartleet

Also,

I did get a CEL as soon as the air pump was disconnected as expected.

Another thing i have noticed is that the instrument cluster dims when the air pump comes on and the engine revs drop into stall territory.

The air pump comes on whenever you dab the throttle and goes of shortly afterwords until the car is warm.

The petrol/chemical smell is RANK but disappears when the car has been running for a little while.

CKit

All our cars smell like fuel on cold start.

Nobody thinks this is battery / alternator / electrical related, right?

And dipping idle after resetting ECU is normal as the sensors need to be auto-calibrated and come online.

nicholasbartleet

Thanks CKit, thats reassuring.
It had crossed my mind that is may be electrical.

To try and solve this problem, just to recap so far I have:

Checked Plugs
Changed Throttle Body
Changed MAP sensor
Changed Coil Packs
Changed Fuel Pressure Regulator
Changed IAC Valve
Checked and Cleaned PCV Valve
Checked all vac lines and changed them
Changed the brass coloured item at the back (firewall end) of the inlet manifold.
Checked all wiring loom connectors. Unplugged and re-plugged.
Disconnected Air Pump (Problem Remained)
Replaced Oil
New Oil Filter
New Alternator Belt
Bypassed TB and IAC Coolant

nicholasbartleet

NEW Discovery.

This may not mean much but the top coolant pipe to the rad is getting nice and hot. The bottom coolant pipe is staying very cool even after 10 mins of idle.

The fans are not kicking in. When i put the AC on they come on as they should, but not during normal idle. Idle seems to sit fairly high at around 1500 to 2000 until the car has really warmed up.

Also, 5 mins after i switched the ignition off, i removed the rad cap and air/ coolant hissed and sprayed out a little. Not scary amounts, but a little hiss and squirt.

Does this mean anything to a seasoned expert.

SgtB

Don't open the radiator cap when the coolant is hot. That's a good way to look funny for the rest of your life.

Did you block the port inside the TB like CKIT said? You can also pull the IACV and watch it move through its entire travel when you power on the car.