My Engine Blew - Honda doesn't care!
#21
Rick, you're incorrect about overrevving causing an immediate problem. If you read the other posts, you would know that it can happen over time if it causing just minor valve damage.
Again, you said you were playing with the Prelude, so I'm still suspicious as well, since you admit you were running it hard.
Also, they claim there was damage on all the plugs, so I doubt it was the #4 cylinder problem. Of course I could be wrong, I just don't remember anyone having damage through out the entire block.
Also I've never heard of someone bending the rods because of a broken timing chain. Usually that causes valve damage. Again, I could be wrong, just bringing up points that could be clarified.
You should call them and ask them to see if the ECU saved the max RPM's since the check engine light came on. Did they actually open the engine up? If they did, go up there and take pictures and post them. That will certainly help diagnose the cause.
Blake
Again, you said you were playing with the Prelude, so I'm still suspicious as well, since you admit you were running it hard.
Also, they claim there was damage on all the plugs, so I doubt it was the #4 cylinder problem. Of course I could be wrong, I just don't remember anyone having damage through out the entire block.
Also I've never heard of someone bending the rods because of a broken timing chain. Usually that causes valve damage. Again, I could be wrong, just bringing up points that could be clarified.
You should call them and ask them to see if the ECU saved the max RPM's since the check engine light came on. Did they actually open the engine up? If they did, go up there and take pictures and post them. That will certainly help diagnose the cause.
Blake
#22
[QUOTE]Originally posted by SenseiRick
[B]I was going about 60-65 in 4th and there was a pop......
If I had shifted into 2nd instead of 4th the reaction would have been immediate.......
this all happened 4-5 seconds after I dropped fourth and was accelerating.
[B]I was going about 60-65 in 4th and there was a pop......
If I had shifted into 2nd instead of 4th the reaction would have been immediate.......
this all happened 4-5 seconds after I dropped fourth and was accelerating.
#24
Registered User
Originally posted by beanolo
i thought as long as you were within warranty they would replace it... as long as you don't say you were racing or anything driver induced...?
i thought as long as you were within warranty they would replace it... as long as you don't say you were racing or anything driver induced...?
Steve
#25
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Join Date: Oct 2000
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Originally posted by jeffbrig
More likely, you really were in 2nd, but your clutch was slipping, and it grabbed right when you heard the pop.
More likely, you really were in 2nd, but your clutch was slipping, and it grabbed right when you heard the pop.
#28
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Join Date: Jan 2003
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I know I get 60mph in 2nd gear...and i shift around 8800 rpms...so I think if he downshifted into 2nd, he would feel it first of all. My car buckles down quite a bit when I downshift like say to 3rd gear going 60mph. I can only imagine downshifting into 2nd at 60mph. Regardless of the fact that he would have felt the mis-shift, I don't think downshifting into 2nd going 60 mph would do that kind of damage...not a one time deal, unless he kept trying to accelerate. I'm sorry, he would have felt the mis-shift and let off almost instantly. Then again, I could be completely wrong. I've only had my s2000 since january...and i'm definitely no mechanic, but from judging from my experience so far...i don't see how he mis-shifted into 2nd without knowing.
#29
Hey man,
I hate to hear that about your S2000. My suggestion would be to call the General Manager at the dealership and tell him your story. I've done this once in the past over a nasty paint defect on a Ford product. I hate going to the manager but service changed their tune within an hour. A General Manager will have service kissing much ass. Next go to another dealer or an attorney.
-Stephen
I hate to hear that about your S2000. My suggestion would be to call the General Manager at the dealership and tell him your story. I've done this once in the past over a nasty paint defect on a Ford product. I hate going to the manager but service changed their tune within an hour. A General Manager will have service kissing much ass. Next go to another dealer or an attorney.
-Stephen
#30
I'm getting a very different picture of what happened than what I've read so far. If something goes "pop", and then you're bouncing off the rev limiter, then something in your drive system broke loose. Maybe some shaft, U-joint, clutch, whatever. If it happened in the engine, causing it to lock up, I'd guess you broke your crankshaft. But I find that hard to believe. Right now, there is a lot of speculation, but nobody really knows what acutally happened.
Did your clutch still function properly after the incident? Then the problem is before the clutch. If the engine is locked up, then I'm assuming that the dealer is telling you that they won't give you Carte Blanche on the repair bill - If they tear the engine apart and find it to be abuse, then you'll have to pay for it. I doubt that they will deny repairs without knowing what actually happened.
It's hard to diagnose the problem because you (SenseiRick) are using chopped-up grammar that is hard to understand, and your train of thought is hard to follow. Also, your first description of what happened is quite different from your latter posts. I'm not trying to flame you, I'm just trying to explain why it is difficult for all of us to help you diagnose the problem. Several people state that your story is fishy, and I suspect it is only because your description of the sequence of events is hard to follow.
Edit: The rods are bent, but that's not what started the sequence of events. You need to find out what caused the engine to disengage from the drivetrain. If you were bouncing off the rev limiter for 4 seconds, then you did not immediately let off the gas. Four seconds is an eternity with the car at or around redline.
Did your clutch still function properly after the incident? Then the problem is before the clutch. If the engine is locked up, then I'm assuming that the dealer is telling you that they won't give you Carte Blanche on the repair bill - If they tear the engine apart and find it to be abuse, then you'll have to pay for it. I doubt that they will deny repairs without knowing what actually happened.
It's hard to diagnose the problem because you (SenseiRick) are using chopped-up grammar that is hard to understand, and your train of thought is hard to follow. Also, your first description of what happened is quite different from your latter posts. I'm not trying to flame you, I'm just trying to explain why it is difficult for all of us to help you diagnose the problem. Several people state that your story is fishy, and I suspect it is only because your description of the sequence of events is hard to follow.
Edit: The rods are bent, but that's not what started the sequence of events. You need to find out what caused the engine to disengage from the drivetrain. If you were bouncing off the rev limiter for 4 seconds, then you did not immediately let off the gas. Four seconds is an eternity with the car at or around redline.